View entire thread: 3 quick questions...
Posted by Kadaitcha Man on Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:35 PM Post subject: 3 quick questions...
Do you suck cock? Do you swallow? Do you have a daughter? -- alt.usenet.kooks - Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line
& Sinker: September 2005 and April 2006 "K-Man's particular genius, however, lies not merely in his humour,
but his ability to make posters who had previously seemed reasonably well-balanced turn into foaming, frothing, death
threat-uttering maniacs" - Snarky, Demon Lord of Confusion "If the truth be known, the only reason Osama is
still on the loose is because he himself hasn't fallen victim to the K-Man." - Wog George Thou light-fingered
rascally sheep-biter. Thou venomed wasp-stung and impatient fool.
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View entire thread: OT Tripping Chipmunks
Posted by NightMist on Wed Aug 23, 2006 3:16 PM Post subject: Re: OT Tripping Chipmunks
Nah. It's just that for years they coated the seeds that were sold with mercury compounds so that loadies wouldn't eat
them. They contain Lysergic Acid Amide, which you could derive LSD from much more easily and safely than you could make
meth from cold medicine. Druggies have been growing the flowers for the seeds for decades, but a human would have to eat
lots and lots of them. The phrase 'bilious beanbag' has been used to describe how one would feel after ingesting that
many seeds. The chipmunks are much much smaller than people, and though they have a faster metabolism, would still need
many fewer seeds per ounce of body weight than a human in order to get the effect. Our little furry family seems to be
living on them, and yes I have seen them actually fall off the porch railing. (G) The most popular varieties, Heavenly
Blues and Pearly Gates, are supposed to have the highest concentration of the compound in them. I have those out front,
as well as Scarlet O'Hara, Grandpa Ott, and Moonflowers. I think they have crossbred because I am getting some pastel
shades and varicoloreds this year. NightMist On Tue, 22 Aug 2006 19:25:21 +0200, "Roberta Zollner"
<rl.zollner@gmx.net.old> wrote: [quote:2a4bc9ba88]LOL! And very interesting. Thought morning glories were
outright poisonous. It's very impressive that they can be that high and still find théir holes! Maybe spraying the
inside of the hole with something strong will help, so it doesn't smell like home to them? (lavender oil, cinnamon,
garlic) Roberta in D "NightMist" <nightmiste@gmail.com> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:44eaf5dd.50814252@news.madbbs.com... We have a family of chipmunks living under the siding at the front of the
house. At least that is where we assume they are living since that is where they zip off to when we disturb them on our
front porch. We have been watching them for a couple of months now. You can see them almost every morning on our front
porch eating and collecting seeds. The seeds they are collecting are from the morning glory vines that almost cover the
front of the porch from ground to roof. They love those seeds. DH put a spoon of peanut butter out for them, and they
totally ignored it in favor of morning glory seeds. A little bit of research and questioning of science minded persons
has led us to conclude that the furry little whackos are probably tripping their wee rodent brains out. Their internal
chemistry is not that disimilar from a lab rat's, i.e. close enough to a human's that they have probably been on a long
strange trip all summer. I told DH that instead of putting out peanut butter he should have run speakers and played the
Grateful Dead for them. Maybe put out some little psychedelic posters and a teeny black light. NightMist working on
figuring out how to get them out from under the siding -- The wolf that understands fire has much to eat.
[/quote:2a4bc9ba88] -- The wolf that understands fire has much to eat.
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View entire thread: OT Tripping Chipmunks
Posted by Pati Cook on Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:53 PM Post subject: Re: OT Tripping Chipmunks
and Morning Glories are illegal in Arizona. Have been for years and years. Something to do with the effect of the
vines on cotton harvesting equipment. <G> Pati, in Phx NightMist wrote: [quote:8f682937eb]Nah. It's just that
for years they coated the seeds that were sold with mercury compounds so that loadies wouldn't eat them. They contain
Lysergic Acid Amide, which you could derive LSD from much more easily and safely than you could make meth from cold
medicine. Druggies have been growing the flowers for the seeds for decades, but a human would have to eat lots and lots
of them. The phrase 'bilious beanbag' has been used to describe how one would feel after ingesting that many seeds.
The chipmunks are much much smaller than people, and though they have a faster metabolism, would still need many fewer
seeds per ounce of body weight than a human in order to get the effect. Our little furry family seems to be living on
them, and yes I have seen them actually fall off the porch railing. (G) The most popular varieties, Heavenly Blues and
Pearly Gates, are supposed to have the highest concentration of the compound in them. I have those out front, as well
as Scarlet O'Hara, Grandpa Ott, and Moonflowers. I think they have crossbred because I am getting some pastel shades and
varicoloreds this year. NightMist On Tue, 22 Aug 2006 19:25:21 +0200, "Roberta Zollner"
rl.zollner@gmx.net.old> wrote: LOL! And very interesting. Thought morning glories were outright poisonous. It's
very impressive that they can be that high and still find théir holes! Maybe spraying the inside of the hole with
something strong will help, so it doesn't smell like home to them? (lavender oil, cinnamon, garlic) Roberta in D
"NightMist" <nightmiste@gmail.com> schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:44eaf5dd.50814252@news.madbbs.com... We
have a family of chipmunks living under the siding at the front of the house. At least that is where we assume they are
living since that is where they zip off to when we disturb them on our front porch. We have been watching them for a
couple of months now. You can see them almost every morning on our front porch eating and collecting seeds. The seeds
they are collecting are from the morning glory vines that almost cover the front of the porch from ground to roof. They
love those seeds. DH put a spoon of peanut butter out for them, and they totally ignored it in favor of morning glory
seeds. A little bit of research and questioning of science minded persons has led us to conclude that the furry little
whackos are probably tripping their wee rodent brains out. Their internal chemistry is not that disimilar from a lab
rat's, i.e. close enough to a human's that they have probably been on a long strange trip all summer. I told DH that
instead of putting out peanut butter he should have run speakers and played the Grateful Dead for them. Maybe put out
some little psychedelic posters and a teeny black light. NightMist working on figuring out how to get them out from
under the siding -- The wolf that understands fire has much to eat. [/quote:8f682937eb]
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View entire thread: Light blue Minkee?
Posted by Johanna Gibson on Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:11 PM Post subject: Light blue Minkee?
Hello, I'm finally working on a quilt for Sasha, chief QI, and using a lovely "brown gelatto minkee"
of which I cannot find more! Never mind, I thought it would be nice to make a little pillow of light blue minkee to go
with it, and it would take only about 1/2 yard of Minkee. I don't want to order that, so I wondered if someone here
would like to trade? Maybe you have a little leftover from a baby project? I have fabric and Scottish things... let's
talk! -- Jo in Scotland
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View entire thread: Light blue Minkee?
Posted by Cats on Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:57 PM Post subject: Re: Light blue Minkee?
Can't help with light blue but I have approx 1/2 yard "scraps" of two shades of brown, white and black. Let
me know if Her Majesty would deign to consider an alternative. -- Cheryl & the Cats _ _ _ _
_ _ ( > Y < ) ( > Y < ) ( > Y < ) ~ ~ ~ Enness
Boofhead Donut Now in hibernation with a wake-up call for Spring!
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau "Johanna Gibson"
<jgibson@NOSPAMtesco.net> wrote in message news:aovgd29t130kg0mtpci6c5mp302tfh0uvq@4ax.com... : Hello, : I'm
finally working on a quilt for Sasha, chief QI, and using a : lovely "brown gelatto minkee" of which I cannot
find more! Never : mind, I thought it would be nice to make a little pillow of light blue : minkee to go with it, and
it would take only about 1/2 yard of Minkee. : I don't want to order that, so I wondered if someone here would like :
to trade? Maybe you have a little leftover from a baby project? I : have fabric and Scottish things... let's talk! :
: : -- Jo in Scotland
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View entire thread: En101 is a movement.
Posted by Anonymous on Thu Jul 27, 2006 11:30 AM Post subject: En101 is a movement.
En101 is an Internet based company on a mission: To bring the people of the world closer together through the promotion
of "One World, One Language". In just 6 short months over 35,000 people have already joined our efforts by
simply sharing this incredible educational opportunity with the people they know. You can help spread the "One
World-One Language" concept around the globe - at the speed of light! En101 is a movement. The goal is two-fold:
1. To make learning English Fast, Fun, Easy and Affordable for the entire household. 2. To create an Opportunity that
encourages and rewards our members for sharing what they've learned with people they know. Let's be partners! - Call me
NOW or go to my website and click on the e-mail link. http://ostrava.en101.com
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View entire thread: Eggs
Posted by Mirjam Bruck-Cohen on Mon Nov 06, 2006 6:18 AM Post subject: Re: Eggs
Anne as i started reading this i imidaitely thought FELT eggs ,,,,, take some beize or even light pink fel and add some
tiny shiny `strokes` of a shiny thread ,,,,, and even a tiny bead or two ,,, you might also use a piece of old lace ,
some eggs have this uneven surface , mirjam [quote:934cb64610]After the recent paint job, I went into a
reorganization frenzy. In the process, I unearthed a trapunto/candlewicking kit. It was put out by the Creative Circle,
circa 1986, and is called Still Life Trapunto. I got it from Ebay and started doing the flower filled pitcher as
directed, using satin and stem stitches in white and beige floss. Despite almost always finishing what I start
stitching, something about the design or maybe the way I was working it said "stop now!" On this go-round, I
decided to make it colorful by using over dyed and varigated floss for the peonies and other somewhat styalized flowers.
For the most part, I'm happy with the way they look. The eggs in the basket are supposed be backstiched after attaching
another piece of fabric and then 'trapuntoed' (snip a place in the back and stuff the area). I'm toying with the idea of
using different sized pieces of felt or padded satin stitches on the top of some of the eggs for a 3D effect. I'm
stumped (little pun) about the color families of DMC thread and stitches I can use for the eggs. I've got a collection
of crewel wools in white, beige, or brown as well. However, I don't want the 3D eggs to be the focal point, so please
think about subtle coloring and 'stuffing.' -- another Anne, add ingers to frugalf to reply[/quote:934cb64610]
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View entire thread: OT: Mysteries - easy read & animals/vet stuff
Posted by ellice on Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:54 PM Post subject: Re: Mysteries - easy read & animals/vet stuff
On 10/12/06 4:11 PM, "Cheryl Isaak" <cherylisaak@adelphia.net> wrote: [quote:550ba9f5a9]Elizabeth
George - she is so DARK, great books, but darker than midnight in a cave. Cheryl [/quote:550ba9f5a9] Not quite that
dark. Hey, there's a new one just coming out... Oh, no animals, but I really like the Margaret Maron books. She has 2
series - one the Judge Deborah Knott (set in NC) which I like very much, and the other the Sigrid Harald series - a bit
more serious. Fun - hmm, there is nothing funnier than the ridicualous Joan Hess "Magody" series - with the
sheriff deputy in town being essentially the only one still seeming to have most of their brain. Also, her other series
- the Claire Malloy books - Claire owns a bookstore, small university town, teen-age daughter - always involved in some
crime solving. They're kind of hilarious as well. Not as ludicrous as the Maggody books, but similar. You could go for
fun with either the Tommy & Tuppence series, or the Lord Peter Wimsey series (Dorothy L. Sayers). For very light,
there are the MC Beaton books - Hamish MacBeth series (scottish police guy in a remote village) and the Agatha Raisin
books. They're quick, and light. And for a slight classical tie-in, there are 2 books by Carrie Bebris - "Pride
& Presciens" and "sense &???" that are mystery/crime books set as a follow on to Pride &
Prejudice. The 3rd book is in hardcover - so I haven't read it yet. They're good - not disappointing. And quick.
Plus - if you're a horse person - there is always Dick Francis and the various horse-racing related books. Ok - got to
go for real now. Ellice [quote:550ba9f5a9] On 10/12/06 4:04 PM, in article
4dxXg.10666$o71.3204@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net, "Bev72" bsf5@earthlink.net> wrote: Any book by
Elizabeth George, the series with The Ladies of Covington, and the old time writers, Christie and Patricia Wentworth.
"ElastiGirl" <mrmrsincred@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:mrmrsincred-
BC0979.07334112102006@news.west.earthlink.net... Okay ladies, I'm coming to my favorite source w/ a request. First, the
background... In March we're taking our dear niece to Walt Disney World for 8 days or so. She's in pre-vet animal
science (will be 2nd semester junior @ time of trip). We'll be spending quite a bit of time in the car (16 hrs or so)
& relaxing poolside. I'd LOVE to be able to introduce her to some GOOD, FUN READS in the cozy mystery vein (that's
how her mom got turned on to reading). She actually enjoys reading text books & she doesn't mind reading non-
fiction, but I haven't had a huge amount of success with fiction. She's taking brit lit this semester and doing really
well & enjoying it too (oh, by the way, she REALLY liked the BBC production of Pride & Prejudice (the one with
Colin Firth)). I'm thinking about taking a couple of Stephanie Plums (au: Janet Evanovich) -- they're a hoot and
storylines aren't too involved. Maybe I'm thinking in the wrong direction, maybe something with more humor and a more
detailed storyline is better? Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions -- and I'm fixing to make an amazon purchase -- so,
lay it on me! Thanks in Advance, EG [/quote:550ba9f5a9]
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View entire thread: OT: Mysteries - easy read & animals/vet stuff
Posted by CindyLV on Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:28 PM Post subject: Re: Mysteries - easy read & animals/vet stuff
I dearly love the Stephenie Plum novels!. Great light reading plus she has Rex the Hamspter! Great light reading and
there are 12 one them. Enough to keep one busy reading for an entire summer let alone a trip to Disney! On the other
hand if she likes animals and mystery with less humor try Iris Johanson <sp> She tends to write about horsepeople
and their animals. Cindy "ElastiGirl" <mrmrsincred@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:mrmrsincred-
BC0979.07334112102006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:2ee034b7d8]Okay ladies, I'm coming to my favorite source w/ a
request. First, the background... In March we're taking our dear niece to Walt Disney World for 8 days or so. She's in
pre-vet animal science (will be 2nd semester junior @ time of trip). We'll be spending quite a bit of time in the car
(16 hrs or so) & relaxing poolside. I'd LOVE to be able to introduce her to some GOOD, FUN READS in the cozy mystery
vein (that's how her mom got turned on to reading). She actually enjoys reading text books & she doesn't mind
reading non-fiction, but I haven't had a huge amount of success with fiction. She's taking brit lit this semester and
doing really well & enjoying it too (oh, by the way, she REALLY liked the BBC production of Pride & Prejudice
(the one with Colin Firth)). I'm thinking about taking a couple of Stephanie Plums (au: Janet Evanovich) -- they're a
hoot and storylines aren't too involved. Maybe I'm thinking in the wrong direction, maybe something with more humor and
a more detailed storyline is better? Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions -- and I'm fixing to make an amazon purchase
-- so, lay it on me! Thanks in Advance, EG[/quote:2ee034b7d8]
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View entire thread: Baking suggestion...
Posted by Karen C - California on Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:51 AM Post subject: Re: Baking suggestion...
Brenda Lewis wrote: [quote:3affd3f368]Just cream cheese or is it mixed with something? If it is just cream cheese, I'd
hit it with the mixer on high speed to whip quite a bit of air into it which should make it smooth and creamy. An
alternative would be to start with the spreadable cream cheese which is quite a bit smoother. [/quote:3affd3f368]
That's what I'd do, too. Let the mixer run for quite a while to get it as light and fluffy as possible. -- Karen C
- California www.CFSfacts.org where we give you the facts and dispel the myths September is National Pain Awareness
Month Finished 9/20/06 -- baby bib WIP: baby and housewarming gifts, July birthstone, Flowers of Hawaii (Jeanette
Crews) for ME!!! Retrieved from UFO pile: Marbek's Snow Angel LTR: Fireman's Prayer (#2), Amid Amish Life, Angel of
Autumn, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe Editor/Proofreader www.KarenMCampbell.com Design page
http://www.KarenMCampbell.com/designs.html
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View entire thread: Very OT: Bees
Posted by Mavia Beaulieu on Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:48 AM Post subject: Re: Very OT: Bees
"Dianne Lewandowski" <dianne@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message news:4nti3eFc1gacU1@individual.net...
[quote:230e33f664]Mavia, I've had both honey bees and bumble bees. Bumble bees normally are the ones that make ground
holes. Usually there hives are very small in number, and next spring they don't return to the same spot, although the
queen overwinters underground. I had a bee keeper tend to both problems. For the bumble bees (which I stepped on and
he got my toe), he merely sprayed with wasp spray directly into the nest at evening. For the honeybees, he captured the
queen and took the hive with him. My suggestion: get a bee keeper. If not in your yellow pages, call your county
extension agent. Dianne [/quote:230e33f664] Thanks everyone for your responses and suggestions. I took the advice and
called our local museum and spoke to the entomologists on staff there. From my description she felt what we have are
bumble bees and not honey bees. She didn't think a bee keeper would be interested in them. She did give me some
information about them. They would be dormant in a couple more weeks and not be a problem any more this year. We
probably wouldn't have an increase in numbers next year but chances are they will be back again. We have the choice
of either getting rid of them now or waiting to see what happens in the spring. I have been reluctant to exterminate
them because they are beneficial in nature. They are finished collecting pollen for this year and most of them will
die off over winter, except the queen. So I guess it would be in our best interest to get rid of them now and seal up
the crack in the foundation. Hopefully then the problem won't reoccur next year. She also said I would probably have
a hard time finding an exterminator to do the job as they considered them a beneficial insect not a pest. Normally we
would do it ourselves anyway with a wasp bomb. She suggested doing it at night and using a red filter over any light
as apparently they can't see red light. I'll let you know what we decide to do and how it works out! Mavia
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View entire thread: Very OT: Bees
Posted by Brenda Lewis on Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:03 AM Post subject: Re: Very OT: Bees
Mavia Beaulieu wrote: [quote:48a9db9b47]Thanks everyone for your responses and suggestions. I took the advice and
called our local museum and spoke to the entomologists on staff there. From my description she felt what we have are
bumble bees and not honey bees. She didn't think a bee keeper would be interested in them. She did give me some
information about them. They would be dormant in a couple more weeks and not be a problem any more this year. We
probably wouldn't have an increase in numbers next year but chances are they will be back again. We have the choice of
either getting rid of them now or waiting to see what happens in the spring. I have been reluctant to exterminate them
because they are beneficial in nature. They are finished collecting pollen for this year and most of them will die off
over winter, except the queen. So I guess it would be in our best interest to get rid of them now and seal up the crack
in the foundation. Hopefully then the problem won't reoccur next year. She also said I would probably have a hard time
finding an exterminator to do the job as they considered them a beneficial insect not a pest. Normally we would do it
ourselves anyway with a wasp bomb. She suggested doing it at night and using a red filter over any light as apparently
they can't see red light. I'll let you know what we decide to do and how it works out! [/quote:48a9db9b47] Sealing the
crack in the foundation is a good idea in any case. Bumblebees are beneficial and are usually not as aggressive (or as
speedy) as wasps and hornets. If you (or a near neighbor) have lots of flowers to keep them happy, it wouldn't hurt to
leave them alone. Just mark the location of the nest and make certain no one stomps on it or runs a lawn mower
directly over it. -- Brenda Help Project Gutenberg--become a Distributed Proofreader http://www.pgdp.net/
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View entire thread: Very OT: Bees
Posted by lucretia borgia on Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:22 AM Post subject: Re: Very OT: Bees
"Mavia Beaulieu" <mavia@accesscable.net>,in rec.crafts.textiles.needleworkwrote: and entertained us
with [quote:4f8620108d] "Dianne Lewandowski" <dianne@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message
news:4nti3eFc1gacU1@individual.net... Mavia, I've had both honey bees and bumble bees. Bumble bees normally are the
ones that make ground holes. Usually there hives are very small in number, and next spring they don't return to the
same spot, although the queen overwinters underground. I had a bee keeper tend to both problems. For the bumble bees
(which I stepped on and he got my toe), he merely sprayed with wasp spray directly into the nest at evening. For the
honeybees, he captured the queen and took the hive with him. My suggestion: get a bee keeper. If not in your yellow
pages, call your county extension agent. Dianne Thanks everyone for your responses and suggestions. I took the advice
and called our local museum and spoke to the entomologists on staff there. From my description she felt what we have
are bumble bees and not honey bees. She didn't think a bee keeper would be interested in them. She did give me some
information about them. They would be dormant in a couple more weeks and not be a problem any more this year. We
probably wouldn't have an increase in numbers next year but chances are they will be back again. We have the choice of
either getting rid of them now or waiting to see what happens in the spring. I have been reluctant to exterminate them
because they are beneficial in nature. They are finished collecting pollen for this year and most of them will die off
over winter, except the queen. So I guess it would be in our best interest to get rid of them now and seal up the crack
in the foundation. Hopefully then the problem won't reoccur next year. She also said I would probably have a hard time
finding an exterminator to do the job as they considered them a beneficial insect not a pest. Normally we would do it
ourselves anyway with a wasp bomb. She suggested doing it at night and using a red filter over any light as apparently
they can't see red light. I'll let you know what we decide to do and how it works out! Mavia If you're going to do
that, do it after sunset. I always did that[/quote:4f8620108d] with wasp nests. That way, you get all of them.
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View entire thread: OT: Frozen Orange Truffle Souffles
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:51 PM Post subject: OT: Frozen Orange Truffle Souffles
Title: Frozen Orange Truffle Souffles Yield: 6 Servings Ingredients 1 unflavored gelatin envelope 1/2 c
orange juice, fresh 5 eggs; separated, room temp. 1/2 c superfine sugar 1 ts grated orange zest
3 tb orange liqueur (see note) 1 c heavy cream; chilled 6 chocolate truffles 1 strips of orange
zest (opt.) 1 whipped cream (for garnish) Instructions Note: Grand Marnier or Orange Curacao are suggested
orange liqueurs. Wrap parchement paper or aluminum foil collars around six 2/3-cup souffle dishes and fasten with tape
or string. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the orange juice and set aside until softened. Place the bowl in a
pan of hot water and stir occasionally until the gelatin dissolves, about 3 minutes. Set aside in the hot water. In a
double boiler, beat the egg yolks and sugar over barely simmering water until the mixture is light-colored, creamy and
warm to the touch, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and continue to beat until the mixture cools, thickens and
forms a ribbon when the beater is lifted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the orange zest and liqueur. Scrape into a large bowl
and set aside. Beat the cream until it is doubled in volume and forms soft peaks. Beat the egg whites until they form
soft peaks. Stir the gelatin mixture into the beaten egg yolks. Place the bowl in a larger bowl half-filled with ice and
water and stir with a rubber spatula until the mixture begins to thicken and mound, 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the
type of bowl used (metal chills faster than glass or ceramic). Immediately remove from the ice water and fold in the
whipped cream. About one-third at a time, fold in the egg whites until no streaks of white remain; do not overmix. Spoon
1/2 cup of the mousse mixture into each souffle dish and place a truffle in the center. Divide the remaining mousse
amoung the dishes to bury the truffles. Smooth the tops, cover loosely with waxed paper and place on a tray in the
refrigerator until set and chilled, about 2 1/2 hours. Before serving, remove the paper collars. Decorate the tops with
whipped cream and strips of orange zest, if desired. Serve chilled. Second note: To make sure which liquor you want to
add, taste both. Multiple tastings may be neccesary in order to decide. This also allows you to make sure nothing has
gone bad. Tasting should be done with the tuffles as well to make sure they go well together. George OK. Here's my
recipe, where's yours. -- There is no such thing as being beneath one's dignity to put in an honest day's work. Work
*is* what gives us our dignity, as well as our sense of self-worth. "Mishna 2(a)"
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View entire thread: Make inkjet prints last?
Posted by Hebee Jeebes on Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:20 AM Post subject: Re: Make inkjet prints last?
Depends. If you are using an older printer that uses dye inks, then yes. Framed or out of an album they will last a
year or two. In an album in a dark place a bit longer. If you have one of the newer printers that uses pigment inks
and you are using the right paper they will last a decade or two. I do not believe that even the pigment inks will last
the 70 to 200 years some printer makers claim. All of the testing done on this is done in a lab simulating what they
think is 70 to 200 years of light exposure. They do not take in to account the variations in pollution, atmosphere
(drier vs. wetter conditions) and the like. But I do believe that these newer printers will make prints that last a
decade or two. Some printers to look at include: The Epson R1800 The Epson R2400 The original Epson PictureMate (the
new just released ones use dye inks and went from 6 colors to 4) The HP PhotoSmart 9180 Basically look for them
talking about pigment based inks. It is of course important that you use real Epson, HP, Canon inks and paper. Using
others totally throws the print life out the window. Meaning you just don't know then how long the prints will last.
Robert
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View entire thread: Make inkjet prints last?
Posted by Luna on Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:53 PM Post subject: Re: Make inkjet prints last?
In article <453324c2$0$34498$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, "Hebee Jeebes" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
[quote:c954865908]Depends. If you are using an older printer that uses dye inks, then yes. Framed or out of an album
they will last a year or two. In an album in a dark place a bit longer. If you have one of the newer printers that uses
pigment inks and you are using the right paper they will last a decade or two. I do not believe that even the pigment
inks will last the 70 to 200 years some printer makers claim. All of the testing done on this is done in a lab
simulating what they think is 70 to 200 years of light exposure. They do not take in to account the variations in
pollution, atmosphere (drier vs. wetter conditions) and the like. But I do believe that these newer printers will make
prints that last a decade or two. Some printers to look at include: The Epson R1800 The Epson R2400 The original Epson
PictureMate (the new just released ones use dye inks and went from 6 colors to 4) The HP PhotoSmart 9180 Basically look
for them talking about pigment based inks. It is of course important that you use real Epson, HP, Canon inks and paper.
Using others totally throws the print life out the window. Meaning you just don't know then how long the prints will
last. Robert [/quote:c954865908] Thank you for all that interesting information! It doesn't help me much, since I'm
talking about pictures on layouts that are already completed, and I can't actually afford to buy a new printer right
now.
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View entire thread: Make inkjet prints last?
Posted by Luna on Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:54 PM Post subject: Re: Make inkjet prints last?
In article <453324c2$0$34498$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, "Hebee Jeebes" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
[quote:711b0faaf6]Depends. If you are using an older printer that uses dye inks, then yes. Framed or out of an album
they will last a year or two. In an album in a dark place a bit longer. If you have one of the newer printers that uses
pigment inks and you are using the right paper they will last a decade or two. I do not believe that even the pigment
inks will last the 70 to 200 years some printer makers claim. All of the testing done on this is done in a lab
simulating what they think is 70 to 200 years of light exposure. They do not take in to account the variations in
pollution, atmosphere (drier vs. wetter conditions) and the like. But I do believe that these newer printers will make
prints that last a decade or two. Some printers to look at include: The Epson R1800 The Epson R2400 The original Epson
PictureMate (the new just released ones use dye inks and went from 6 colors to 4) The HP PhotoSmart 9180 Basically look
for them talking about pigment based inks. It is of course important that you use real Epson, HP, Canon inks and paper.
Using others totally throws the print life out the window. Meaning you just don't know then how long the prints will
last. Robert [/quote:711b0faaf6] Oh, I just remembered the name of that spray product I was talking about. Krylon
makes it, it's called "Preserve It!"
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View entire thread: Make inkjet prints last?
Posted by Hebee Jeebes on Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:11 PM Post subject: Re: Make inkjet prints last?
I would look for same preservation spray. You should be able to get this from almost any scrapbooking store. It can be
used on the entire page and will neutralize any acid in the inkjet paper. Keep the albums and images out of the light
as much as possible. Another option is to laminate any new pictures you do, this will seal them and keep air away from
them. I would recommend a cold or heatless laminating something like the Xyron machine which has laminate cartridges,
you want to laminate both sides. When buying paper for your printer try to make sure that it is archival quality this
will mean no acid or lignin, you may pay more for it but it will help your prints last longer. With that you only have
to worry about color shifting and fading of the ink and the laminating will help with that. Robert "Luna"
<lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:lunachick-27AAD6.08540216102006@news.west.earthlink.net...
[quote:c90f3ccd5c]In article <453324c2$0$34498$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, "Hebee Jeebes"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote: Depends. If you are using an older printer that uses dye inks, then yes. Framed or out
of an album they will last a year or two. In an album in a dark place a bit longer. If you have one of the newer
printers that uses pigment inks and you are using the right paper they will last a decade or two. I do not believe that
even the pigment inks will last the 70 to 200 years some printer makers claim. All of the testing done on this is done
in a lab simulating what they think is 70 to 200 years of light exposure. They do not take in to account the variations
in pollution, atmosphere (drier vs. wetter conditions) and the like. But I do believe that these newer printers will
make prints that last a decade or two. Some printers to look at include: The Epson R1800 The Epson R2400 The original
Epson PictureMate (the new just released ones use dye inks and went from 6 colors to 4) The HP PhotoSmart 9180
Basically look for them talking about pigment based inks. It is of course important that you use real Epson, HP, Canon
inks and paper. Using others totally throws the print life out the window. Meaning you just don't know then how long the
prints will last. Robert Thank you for all that interesting information! It doesn't help me much, since I'm talking
about pictures on layouts that are already completed, and I can't actually afford to buy a new printer right
now.[/quote:c90f3ccd5c]
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View entire thread: Make inkjet prints last?
Posted by Hebee Jeebes on Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:14 PM Post subject: Re: Make inkjet prints last?
Yes, that will help remove the acid form the paper. Just beware that if you spray too much (get the prints too wet)
they ink will do funny things as it is most likely not moisture or water poof. I would suggest spraying from a
distance and if needed spray two of three times with a light mist instead of one heavy spray. If possible do the back
of the prints as well. I would also do a test on an unimportant print to make sure that the spray isn't doing to do
something unexpected. If it works ok, then spray your album images. Robert "Luna"
<lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:lunachick-A673C7.08551716102006@news.west.earthlink.net...
[quote:6c4929d145]In article <453324c2$0$34498$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, "Hebee Jeebes"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote: Depends. If you are using an older printer that uses dye inks, then yes. Framed or out
of an album they will last a year or two. In an album in a dark place a bit longer. If you have one of the newer
printers that uses pigment inks and you are using the right paper they will last a decade or two. I do not believe that
even the pigment inks will last the 70 to 200 years some printer makers claim. All of the testing done on this is done
in a lab simulating what they think is 70 to 200 years of light exposure. They do not take in to account the variations
in pollution, atmosphere (drier vs. wetter conditions) and the like. But I do believe that these newer printers will
make prints that last a decade or two. Some printers to look at include: The Epson R1800 The Epson R2400 The original
Epson PictureMate (the new just released ones use dye inks and went from 6 colors to 4) The HP PhotoSmart 9180
Basically look for them talking about pigment based inks. It is of course important that you use real Epson, HP, Canon
inks and paper. Using others totally throws the print life out the window. Meaning you just don't know then how long the
prints will last. Robert Oh, I just remembered the name of that spray product I was talking about. Krylon makes it,
it's called "Preserve It!"[/quote:6c4929d145]
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View entire thread: Here's the photos of the wedding album :)
Posted by Karen AKA Kajikit on Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:30 AM Post subject: Re: Here's the photos of the wedding album :)
On 24 Sep 2006 14:52:43 -0700, "ChrissyM" <mickey8888@verizon.net> wrote: [quote:d7e7c44420]Karen,
What a lovely wedding album. Love the hearts on your Newlywed page. How did you make them? Very nice album.
[/quote:d7e7c44420] On the first party page? I saw that technique on the Scrapbooking show actually - it's the only
thing I've seen on that that I've actually got up and tried! I used a small leafy stamp and a small flower stamp... I
think I drew a very light pencil line on the paper first to give me a guide, then I went around it with the stamp to
make the heart-shaped wreaths... and after that I picked up the small flower stamp and coloured it in with a red marker
because I didn't have any red ink, and stamped it all over where I wanted the flower clusters to be. It's actually very
easy to do and it looks quite effective - if you see something you don't quite like just put some more leaves/flowers
over the top!
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by Luna on Sat May 20, 2006 4:03 PM Post subject: Mother's Day card
Hey y'all. I haven't been here in a while, because I haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while.
But, I decided to make a card for my sister for Mother's Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find
goth looking Mother's Day cards, lol. I haven't given it to her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it
to show you all. Here it is: http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5".
The base of the card was just two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print
"Happy Mother's Day!" on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an
image I liked online, (I can't draw) and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light
grey on watercolor paper. Then I painted inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just
acrylic paints watered down a little. Then I went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise
my sloppy painting. I tore the paper around the design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper,
and then glued the whole shebang to the front of the card.
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by Sandy on Sat May 20, 2006 10:08 PM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
Very pretty - and it does have the goth look. My middle DD is the same way. It's hard to find cards, wrapping paper and
gifts to suit her style. Sandy "Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:
lunachick-F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:b8fd2e7692]Hey y'all. I haven't been here in a while,
because I haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a card for my sister
for Mother's Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day cards, lol. I haven't
given it to her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it is:
http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was just
two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's Day!"
on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I can't draw)
and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper. Then I painted
inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a little. Then I
went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the paper around the
design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to the front of the
card.[/quote:b8fd2e7692]
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by King's Crown on Sat May 20, 2006 10:54 PM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
That turned out really nice. She's going to love it. Nice you could make something for her in her style. Lynne
"Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:lunachick-
F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:4916b4693d]Hey y'all. I haven't been here in a while, because I
haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a card for my sister for Mother's
Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day cards, lol. I haven't given it to
her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it is:
http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was just
two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's Day!"
on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I can't draw)
and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper. Then I painted
inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a little. Then I
went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the paper around the
design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to the front of the
card.[/quote:4916b4693d]
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by kenda on Sun May 21, 2006 9:31 PM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
You did a really great job on this Luna! I like how you did it. She will really like it, especially since you took
into consideration her since of style. -- Kenda (remove NOSPAM to reply)
http://community.webshots.com/user/kendalee101 pages in 2006: 19 cards in 2006: 75 Mini albums: 1 (Wedding album
for exhusband and new wife! how weird it that? LOL) Quilts: 6 "Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com>
wrote in message news:lunachick-F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:718961a2b4]Hey y'all. I haven't
been here in a while, because I haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a
card for my sister for Mother's Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day
cards, lol. I haven't given it to her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it
is: http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was
just two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's
Day!" on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I
can't draw) and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper.
Then I painted inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a
little. Then I went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the
paper around the design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to
the front of the card.[/quote:718961a2b4]
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by Cathy on Tue May 23, 2006 12:13 AM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
Very pretty Luna. I'm sure she will love it. -- Cathy So. California http://photos.yahoo.com/rusks 2006 Pages: 31
Cards: 47 ACTs: 11 "Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:lunachick-
F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:940514b603]Hey y'all. I haven't been here in a while, because I
haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a card for my sister for Mother's
Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day cards, lol. I haven't given it to
her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it is:
http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was just
two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's Day!"
on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I can't draw)
and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper. Then I painted
inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a little. Then I
went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the paper around the
design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to the front of the
card.[/quote:940514b603]
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by Cec on Tue May 23, 2006 9:14 AM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
That's a lovely card Luna, I'm sure your sister loved receiving it ... TFS :o) -- luv Cec xxx Check out my stuff here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/mysticskye76 Scrapping Goal for 2006 = 1 LO per week 2006 Pages so far = 24
scrappinREMOVEME@gmail.com (take out REMOVEME to contact me) "Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com>
wrote in message news:lunachick-F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:b76adaf2f7]Hey y'all. I haven't
been here in a while, because I haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a
card for my sister for Mother's Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day
cards, lol. I haven't given it to her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it
is: http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was
just two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's
Day!" on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I
can't draw) and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper.
Then I painted inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a
little. Then I went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the
paper around the design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to
the front of the card.[/quote:b76adaf2f7]
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View entire thread: Mother's Day card
Posted by Deb in AR on Tue May 23, 2006 6:45 PM Post subject: Re: Mother's Day card
That's a wonderful card Luna. I really like it. I never would have guessed your painting was "sloppy"
either. You really did a great job on it. -- Deb in AR - Desert Rat at heart!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bsrdjr@sbcglobal.net/my_photos Independent Stampin' Up! Demonstrator Pages complete 2006
= 3 Goal for 2006: 1 LO a week "Luna" <lunachick@NOSPAMmindspring.com> wrote in message news:
lunachick-F165B3.11051220052006@news.west.earthlink.net... [quote:81d095006e]Hey y'all. I haven't been here in a while,
because I haven't been doing any scrapbooking or cardmaking for a while. But, I decided to make a card for my sister
for Mother's Day. She's into goth stuff, and it's kind of hard to find goth looking Mother's Day cards, lol. I haven't
given it to her yet because I was sick last weekend, so I scanned it to show you all. Here it is:
http://www.mindspring.com/~designbyluna/leahscard.html The card is 6.5" x 5". The base of the card was just
two layers of card stock, black on the outside and white on the inside so I could print "Happy Mother's Day!"
on the inside in a kind of pretty, kind of goth, font. To do the rose, I found an image I liked online, (I can't draw)
and then using Photoshop I made it into just outlines, and printed it in light grey on watercolor paper. Then I painted
inside the lines, not with watercolors because I don't have any, but just acrylic paints watered down a little. Then I
went over the outlines with a black pen, which kind of helped disguise my sloppy painting. I tore the paper around the
design, and glued it on top of crinkled up, torn edge tissue paper, and then glued the whole shebang to the front of the
card.[/quote:81d095006e]
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View entire thread: ^10 - light reduction glazes
Posted by ShambhalaPottery@aol.com on Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:38 PM Post subject: Re: ^10 - light reduction glazes
5string wrote: [quote:325f0f7f40]I recently switched studios from one that did ^10 heavy-reduction to one that does ^10
light-reduction. I tried a bunch of test tiles using glazes from my previous studio (i.e., heavy reduction) and the
results were (not unexpectantly) disappointing. So..., any suggestions for some ^10 glazes that do well with light
reduction? Thanks. Rick A lot depends on how light is their light reduction. In general, all[/quote:325f0f7f40] the
cobalt blues should do fine, and the rutile blues may work as well, particularly if you put them in the areas of the
kiln that get the best reduction. They will be deeper, more intense in color with more reduction. Copper greens like
Oribe, Ayumi,Willie Helix, can do well in light reduction, but you should do a bunch of test tiles and put them
throughout the kiln to find out where they work best. The Kakis like Tomato Red should work and tenmokus may be OK in
light reduction. The Mashiko type brownish reds may work as well. The celadons usually need more reduction; but I would
choose a celadon that goes blue in oxidation as opposed to one that goes yellow. That way, even if it doesn't reduce you
get a color that is useable and saleable. If you're lucky you might get the robins egg blue color with flashes of red.
The barium yellows need good reduction to develop color, so I would probably avoid those. All whites and oatmeals and
light tans should do fine. Instead of copper reds, you might want to try a chrome/tin red in the most oxidizing part of
the kiln (probably the lowest part of the kiln toward the front), It might work. Again, it depends on when and how much
they are reducing. Ash glazes and fake ash glazes should work as well. Some people only reduce early to get body
reduction and keep the firing neutral till the end when they do a bit more reduction. So, not knowing their schedule,
the best advice I can give is to make a bunch of test tiles and put them in various parts of the kiln to see if they
will work for you and where they might work. You may find that the same oribe will be fine on the lower shelf, in front
but may go a bit liver red in the hotter, more reducing parts of the kiln. Regards, June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
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View entire thread: ^10 - light reduction glazes
Posted by steve slgraber@aol.com on Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:57 PM Post subject: Re: ^10 - light reduction glazes
laguna clay sells turquiose matt which is some barium-bone ash thing that works well across several cones &
reduction levels. it results in a corroded copper time verdigris. i've noticed tenmoku as a base glaze with rutile red
or blue over it works very well. fire hot? find the hot spot in that kiln & try to sit your pieces there? see ya
steve ShambhalaPottery@aol.com wrote: [quote:3c3c9a4025]5string wrote: I recently switched studios from one that did
^10 heavy-reduction to one that does ^10 light-reduction. I tried a bunch of test tiles using glazes from my previous
studio (i.e., heavy reduction) and the results were (not unexpectantly) disappointing. So..., any suggestions for some
^10 glazes that do well with light reduction? Thanks. Rick A lot depends on how light is their light reduction. In
general, all the cobalt blues should do fine, and the rutile blues may work as well, particularly if you put them in the
areas of the kiln that get the best reduction. They will be deeper, more intense in color with more reduction. Copper
greens like Oribe, Ayumi,Willie Helix, can do well in light reduction, but you should do a bunch of test tiles and put
them throughout the kiln to find out where they work best. The Kakis like Tomato Red should work and tenmokus may be OK
in light reduction. The Mashiko type brownish reds may work as well. The celadons usually need more reduction; but I
would choose a celadon that goes blue in oxidation as opposed to one that goes yellow. That way, even if it doesn't
reduce you get a color that is useable and saleable. If you're lucky you might get the robins egg blue color with
flashes of red. The barium yellows need good reduction to develop color, so I would probably avoid those. All whites and
oatmeals and light tans should do fine. Instead of copper reds, you might want to try a chrome/tin red in the most
oxidizing part of the kiln (probably the lowest part of the kiln toward the front), It might work. Again, it depends on
when and how much they are reducing. Ash glazes and fake ash glazes should work as well. Some people only reduce early
to get body reduction and keep the firing neutral till the end when they do a bit more reduction. So, not knowing their
schedule, the best advice I can give is to make a bunch of test tiles and put them in various parts of the kiln to see
if they will work for you and where they might work. You may find that the same oribe will be fine on the lower shelf,
in front but may go a bit liver red in the hotter, more reducing parts of the kiln. Regards, June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/[/quote:3c3c9a4025]
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View entire thread: Machining Expanding 5C Collets?
Posted by Doug White on Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:46 PM Post subject: Machining Expanding 5C Collets?
I need to hold a part with a 1/2" bore to finish machining the outside. I bought an Eagle Rock expanding 5C
collet, but it didn't come with any instructions on the correct way to turn it to size. The "1/2 inch"
collet is about 0.55" in diameter, and has to be turned down. I did some digging on-line, and there are several
different manufacturers. Most provide no instructions on how to turn them to size, and the ones that do all seem to
have varying approaches specific to their design. My concern is how to set the drawbar/expander tension while I turn
it. Hardinge apparently provides a ring that fits on the end that you expand against so that everything is tight
& solid while you are turning it. If the collet is turned as is, the expanding fingers will be free to twist and
flex, and you won't necessarily get a very round result. I also don't know if I should turn it with a little pre-load
on the expander to minimize this. Because I'm actually only going to turn down the end a bit and not the full length,
I could make a ring for the collet to expand against that would fit over the back, but that's a pain in theneck, and if
it was that critical, I assume somebody would provide instructions mentioning it. For now, I'm just going to
tighten the expander plug slightly, then use a sharp tool & light cuts, but I'm curious as to what other folks do
with these things. Thanks! Doug White
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View entire thread: Machining Expanding 5C Collets?
Posted by Mark Rand on Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:01 PM Post subject: Re: Machining Expanding 5C Collets?
On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 14:46:13 GMT, gwhite@alum.mit.edu (Doug White) wrote: [quote:eb7564028b]I need to hold a part with
a 1/2" bore to finish machining the outside. I bought an Eagle Rock expanding 5C collet, but it didn't come with
any instructions on the correct way to turn it to size. The "1/2 inch" collet is about 0.55" in
diameter, and has to be turned down. I did some digging on-line, and there are several different manufacturers. Most
provide no instructions on how to turn them to size, and the ones that do all seem to have varying approaches specific
to their design. My concern is how to set the drawbar/expander tension while I turn it. Hardinge apparently provides a
ring that fits on the end that you expand against so that everything is tight & solid while you are turning it. If
the collet is turned as is, the expanding fingers will be free to twist and flex, and you won't necessarily get a very
round result. I also don't know if I should turn it with a little pre-load on the expander to minimize this. Because
I'm actually only going to turn down the end a bit and not the full length, I could make a ring for the collet to expand
against that would fit over the back, but that's a pain in theneck, and if it was that critical, I assume somebody would
provide instructions mentioning it. For now, I'm just going to tighten the expander plug slightly, then use a sharp
tool & light cuts, but I'm curious as to what other folks do with these things. Thanks! Doug White
[/quote:eb7564028b] Use a pipe/Jubilee clip to restrain the collet while turning to size. Mark Rand RTFM
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View entire thread: U.S Workers Paradise ( HUMOR )
Posted by azotic on Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:22 AM Post subject: U.S Workers Paradise ( HUMOR )
A sign of things to come ? NEW LAW COMING FROM CONGRESS -- AMERICANS WITH NO ABILITIES ACT [quote:44dce81d3a]
WASHINGTON, DC - Congress is considering sweeping legislation, which provides new benefits for many Americans. The
Americans With No Abilities Act (AWNAA) is being hailed as a major legislation by advocates of the millions of Americans
who lack any real skills or ambition. "Roughly 50 percent of Americans do not possess the competence and drive
necessary to carve out a meaningful role for themselves in society," said Barbara Boxer. "We can no longer
stand by and allow people of Inability to be ridiculed and passed over. With this legislation, employers will no longer
be able to grant special favors to a small group of workers, simply because they do a better job, or have some idea of
what they are doing." The President pointed to the success of the US Postal Service, which ha s a long-standing
policy of providing opportunity without regard to performance. Approximately 74 percent of postal employees lack job
skills, making this agency the single largest US employer of Persons of Inability. Private sector industries with good
records of nondiscrimination against the Inept include retail sales (72%), the airline industry (68%),and home
improvement "warehouse" stores (65%) The DMV also has a great record of hiring Persons of Inability. (63%)
Under the Americans With No Abilities Act, more than 25 million "middle man" positions will be created, with
important-sounding titles but little real responsibility, thus providing an illusory sense of purpose and performance.
Mandatory non-performance-based raises and promotions will be given, to guarantee upward mobility for even the most
unremarkable employees. The legislation provides substantial tax br eaks to corporations which maintain a significant
level of Persons of Inability in middle positions, and gives a tax credit to small and medium businesses that agree to
hire one clueless worker for every two talented hires. Finally, the AWNA ACT contains tough new measures to make it
more difficult to discriminate against the Nonabled, banning discriminatory interview questions such as "Do you
have any goals for the future?" or "Do you have any skills or experience which relate to this job?"
"As a Nonabled person, I can't be expected to keep up with people who have something going for them," said
Mary Lou Gertz, who lost her position as a lug-nut twister at the GM plant in Flint, MI due to her lack of notable job
skills. "This new law should really help people like me." With the passage of this bill, Gertz and millions of
other untalented citizens can finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. Said Senator Ted Kennedy, "It is our
duty as lawmakers to provide each and every American citizen, regardless of his or her adequacy, with some sort of space
to take up in this great nation."[/quote:44dce81d3a]
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View entire thread: U.S Workers Paradise ( HUMOR )
Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:08 AM Post subject: Re: U.S Workers Paradise ( HUMOR )
I see where the lefties want to give our money away again - likely yet another steal from the rich to lavish the poor.
So where is the $ in the text - where is my cut to put INTO my pocket !! :-) Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions'
Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force
Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member http://lufkinced.com/ azotic wrote:
[quote:68e588f16d] A sign of things to come ? NEW LAW COMING FROM CONGRESS -- AMERICANS WITH NO ABILITIES ACT
WASHINGTON, DC - Congress is considering sweeping legislation, which provides new benefits for many Americans. The
Americans With No Abilities Act (AWNAA) is being hailed as a major legislation by advocates of the millions of Americans
who lack any real skills or ambition. "Roughly 50 percent of Americans do not possess the competence and drive
necessary to carve out a meaningful role for themselves in society," said Barbara Boxer. "We can no longer
stand by and allow people of Inability to be ridiculed and passed over. With this legislation, employers will no longer
be able to grant special favors to a small group of workers, simply because they do a better job, or have some idea of
what they are doing." The President pointed to the success of the US Postal Service, which ha s a long-standing
policy of providing opportunity without regard to performance. Approximately 74 percent of postal employees lack job
skills, making this agency the single largest US employer of Persons of Inability. Private sector industries with good
records of nondiscrimination against the Inept include retail sales (72%), the airline industry (68%),and home
improvement "warehouse" stores (65%) The DMV also has a great record of hiring Persons of Inability. (63%)
Under the Americans With No Abilities Act, more than 25 million "middle man" positions will be created, with
important-sounding titles but little real responsibility, thus providing an illusory sense of purpose and performance.
Mandatory non-performance-based raises and promotions will be given, to guarantee upward mobility for even the most
unremarkable employees. The legislation provides substantial tax br eaks to corporations which maintain a significant
level of Persons of Inability in middle positions, and gives a tax credit to small and medium businesses that agree to
hire one clueless worker for every two talented hires. Finally, the AWNA ACT contains tough new measures to make it
more difficult to discriminate against the Nonabled, banning discriminatory interview questions such as "Do you
have any goals for the future?" or "Do you have any skills or experience which relate to this job?"
"As a Nonabled person, I can't be expected to keep up with people who have something going for them," said
Mary Lou Gertz, who lost her position as a lug-nut twister at the GM plant in Flint, MI due to her lack of notable job
skills. "This new law should really help people like me." With the passage of this bill, Gertz and millions of
other untalented citizens can finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. Said Senator Ted Kennedy, "It is our
duty as lawmakers to provide each and every American citizen, regardless of his or her adequacy, with some sort of space
to take up in this great nation." [/quote:68e588f16d] ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-
Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
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View entire thread: shop wiring?
Posted by Ignoramus9075 on Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:25 PM Post subject: Re: shop wiring?
On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 18:46:54 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote: [quote:3fc364d799]Yes, you need new wire.
Breakers are to protect wires, keep them from looking like light bulb filaments. Actually, they are sized to keep the
insulation from melting, not the wire. Best thing would be to replace the exisiting junction box with a reasonable
subpannel, either 60 or 100 amp. For your needs, just set up for 100 amps and be donew with it. Run new wire from your
main panel, [/quote:3fc364d799] I have to second the suggestion for a 100 amp subpanel. I have a 60A subpanel and it is
undersized for about same reason as yours (welding and compressor and possibly plasma cutting). I greatly regret not
getting a 100A capable wiring in the first place (2 ga or whatever instead of 6ga). 60 amp is adequate, but not great.
With 100A, I would make my welder into a 300 amp welder. Now it is a 200A welder. :-( i [quote:3fc364d799]protect it
with a breaker suitable for the wire size. Set up a 240volt/30 amp breaker for the east wall, another for the west wall,
a 3rd breaker and outlet for the plasma cutter, another for the phase converter. My local has an indoor rated square D
'QO' (premium)8 slot box for $25 and 240 breakers for $12 each. Grant Erwin wrote: In my main shop I have 3 power
"busses": one each at 117VAC, 220VAC, 220VAC3ph. The 220VAC (single phase) is run with a 30 amp breaker and 10
gauge copper stranded wire. The wire physically runs from the breaker to a box just the other side of a stud from the
panel box, maybe 16", then it splits. One run goes along the west wall of my shop, and the other run goes up and
over the ceiling and then down and along the east wall of my shop. On the east side is connected my 5hp air compressor
(this is a very real Leeson 5hp motor, this isn't Sears ratings here). On the other side is my welder outlet. I'm
basically a one-man shop, so I don't exceed any ratings by running multiple machines simultaneously. This works very
well on my 3-phase bus, but it fails on the 220 bus because the air compressor runs when it wants to. If it comes on
when I'm welding, the 30A breaker pops. So I've learned to shut off the compressor when I'm welding, no big deal. I've
lived like this for several years. However, I recently got a 60A plasma cutter. This machine needs shop air, lots of it,
so I can't shut off the compressor while I'm cutting. And the breaker pops if I don't stop cutting immediately when the
compressor kicks on. So I clearly have to install a larger breaker. I'm probably going to replace the 30A breaker with a
50A breaker. The question is, do I have to pull new wires? It would be possible, the wiring is all in surface 3/4"
EMT conduit. I'm thinking however, that maybe I can get away with just making the one piece of wiring that goes from the
breaker to the J-box where it splits, and keep the 10 gauge runs along the wall, since only half of the current will
flow down each wall. I know what the electrical inspector would say. This shop is never going to get inspected, and if
it did, it would instantly fail as would any other shop with a non-UL-approved shopbuilt 3 phase converter wired in. The
question is what do I really have to do here. Thanks! GWE[/quote:3fc364d799]
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View entire thread: shop wiring?
Posted by Grant Erwin on Sat Oct 07, 2006 9:40 PM Post subject: Re: shop wiring?
Forget running a subpanel. This is already a 60A subpanel off a 200A subpanel off a 400A service. GWE Ignoramus9075
wrote: [quote:31ea27b8ce]On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 18:46:54 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote: Yes, you need
new wire. Breakers are to protect wires, keep them from looking like light bulb filaments. Actually, they are sized to
keep the insulation from melting, not the wire. Best thing would be to replace the exisiting junction box with a
reasonable subpannel, either 60 or 100 amp. For your needs, just set up for 100 amps and be donew with it. Run new wire
from your main panel, I have to second the suggestion for a 100 amp subpanel. I have a 60A subpanel and it is
undersized for about same reason as yours (welding and compressor and possibly plasma cutting). I greatly regret not
getting a 100A capable wiring in the first place (2 ga or whatever instead of 6ga). 60 amp is adequate, but not great.
With 100A, I would make my welder into a 300 amp welder. Now it is a 200A welder. :-( i protect it with a breaker
suitable for the wire size. Set up a 240volt/30 amp breaker for the east wall, another for the west wall, a 3rd breaker
and outlet for the plasma cutter, another for the phase converter. My local has an indoor rated square D 'QO'
(premium)8 slot box for $25 and 240 breakers for $12 each. Grant Erwin wrote: In my main shop I have 3 power
"busses": one each at 117VAC, 220VAC, 220VAC3ph. The 220VAC (single phase) is run with a 30 amp breaker and 10
gauge copper stranded wire. The wire physically runs from the breaker to a box just the other side of a stud from the
panel box, maybe 16", then it splits. One run goes along the west wall of my shop, and the other run goes up and
over the ceiling and then down and along the east wall of my shop. On the east side is connected my 5hp air compressor
(this is a very real Leeson 5hp motor, this isn't Sears ratings here). On the other side is my welder outlet. I'm
basically a one-man shop, so I don't exceed any ratings by running multiple machines simultaneously. This works very
well on my 3-phase bus, but it fails on the 220 bus because the air compressor runs when it wants to. If it comes on
when I'm welding, the 30A breaker pops. So I've learned to shut off the compressor when I'm welding, no big deal. I've
lived like this for several years. However, I recently got a 60A plasma cutter. This machine needs shop air, lots of it,
so I can't shut off the compressor while I'm cutting. And the breaker pops if I don't stop cutting immediately when the
compressor kicks on. So I clearly have to install a larger breaker. I'm probably going to replace the 30A breaker with a
50A breaker. The question is, do I have to pull new wires? It would be possible, the wiring is all in surface 3/4"
EMT conduit. I'm thinking however, that maybe I can get away with just making the one piece of wiring that goes from the
breaker to the J-box where it splits, and keep the 10 gauge runs along the wall, since only half of the current will
flow down each wall. I know what the electrical inspector would say. This shop is never going to get inspected, and if
it did, it would instantly fail as would any other shop with a non-UL-approved shopbuilt 3 phase converter wired in. The
question is what do I really have to do here. Thanks! GWE[/quote:31ea27b8ce]
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View entire thread: shop wiring?
Posted by RoyJ on Sat Oct 07, 2006 11:18 PM Post subject: Re: shop wiring?
Why is that a problem? Grant Erwin wrote: [quote:fa387151ed]Forget running a subpanel. This is already a 60A subpanel
off a 200A subpanel off a 400A service. GWE Ignoramus9075 wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 18:46:54 GMT, RoyJ
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote: Yes, you need new wire. Breakers are to protect wires, keep them from looking
like light bulb filaments. Actually, they are sized to keep the insulation from melting, not the wire. Best thing would
be to replace the exisiting junction box with a reasonable subpannel, either 60 or 100 amp. For your needs, just set up
for 100 amps and be donew with it. Run new wire from your main panel, I have to second the suggestion for a 100 amp
subpanel. I have a 60A subpanel and it is undersized for about same reason as yours (welding and compressor and
possibly plasma cutting). I greatly regret not getting a 100A capable wiring in the first place (2 ga or whatever
instead of 6ga). 60 amp is adequate, but not great. With 100A, I would make my welder into a 300 amp welder. Now it is
a 200A welder. :-( i protect it with a breaker suitable for the wire size. Set up a 240volt/30 amp breaker for the
east wall, another for the west wall, a 3rd breaker and outlet for the plasma cutter, another for the phase converter.
My local has an indoor rated square D 'QO' (premium)8 slot box for $25 and 240 breakers for $12 each. Grant Erwin
wrote: In my main shop I have 3 power "busses": one each at 117VAC, 220VAC, 220VAC3ph. The 220VAC (single
phase) is run with a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge copper stranded wire. The wire physically runs from the breaker to a
box just the other side of a stud from the panel box, maybe 16", then it splits. One run goes along the west wall
of my shop, and the other run goes up and over the ceiling and then down and along the east wall of my shop. On the east
side is connected my 5hp air compressor (this is a very real Leeson 5hp motor, this isn't Sears ratings here). On the
other side is my welder outlet. I'm basically a one-man shop, so I don't exceed any ratings by running multiple machines
simultaneously. This works very well on my 3-phase bus, but it fails on the 220 bus because the air compressor runs when
it wants to. If it comes on when I'm welding, the 30A breaker pops. So I've learned to shut off the compressor when I'm
welding, no big deal. I've lived like this for several years. However, I recently got a 60A plasma cutter. This machine
needs shop air, lots of it, so I can't shut off the compressor while I'm cutting. And the breaker pops if I don't stop
cutting immediately when the compressor kicks on. So I clearly have to install a larger breaker. I'm probably going to
replace the 30A breaker with a 50A breaker. The question is, do I have to pull new wires? It would be possible, the
wiring is all in surface 3/4" EMT conduit. I'm thinking however, that maybe I can get away with just making the one
piece of wiring that goes from the breaker to the J-box where it splits, and keep the 10 gauge runs along the wall,
since only half of the current will flow down each wall. I know what the electrical inspector would say. This shop is
never going to get inspected, and if it did, it would instantly fail as would any other shop with a non-UL-approved
shopbuilt 3 phase converter wired in. The question is what do I really have to do here. Thanks! GWE[/quote:fa387151ed]
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View entire thread: what metal pipe/tube to use?
Posted by Grant Erwin on Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:28 AM Post subject: Re: what metal pipe/tube to use?
zeb7k@hotmail.com wrote: [quote:741fb6b10b]Hi, I'd like to weld together a stand for a halogen light for my workshop.
(I find the stands that come with most halogen lights way too fragile, plastic parts, etc, yuck.) I don't care about
weight, I fact I would appreciate a stand that doesn't get knocked over so easily. My problem is finding a pipe or tube
in mild steel that will "nest" in the next biggest size with say a 1/16" of play --so that my stand will
have a telescoping column for height adjustment. I'm looking for a max outer dia of about @ 1.5". I looked into
EMT (electrical metallic tubing) aka thin-wall conduit but it is too thin and has too much play between the outer wall
of the inner tube and the inner wall of outer tube. I looked at black schedule 40 pipe because it's relatively cheap
but it doesn't nest, very close, but it doesn't nest --at least not the stuff I found at Lowes. (No I don't have a
lathe.) I thought of trying thick-wall conduit. One-inch RMC (or RSC) will nest in a 1-1/4" (according to a table
I found). But it's so expensive! --smooth bore and galvanization in and out. What would you metal fabbers use? My
ideal wall thickness would be around 3/32". --zeb [/quote:741fb6b10b] Telescoping tubing, if I were to do that.
My halogen light stand is a little, um, simpler. I took an old BBQ propane bottle, flushed it, removed the valve, cut
the top off right where the cylindrical part stops, and kept the bottom part for a little slack tank. The top part I
just set down on the ground, where it acts like a solid little base with a 3/4" female NPT hole in it. I threaded
in a piece of 3/4" pipe maybe 3 or 4 feet tall. Now I have a vertical pipe which is hard to tip over. Then I took
a piece of 4x4 about 10" long and drilled a blind hole in it for a loose fit over the pipe. Now I have a rotating
wooden support in midair, which is hard to tip over. Then I basically stapled on my little halogen light fixture.
Mine's adjustable in height. The light can be up on top of the pole, or down on the ground. That's *plenty* of
adjustment. Those halogen shop lights tilt up and down, that provides all the remaining adjustment needed. I think
that light stand took me 10 minutes to make. If you need some telescoping tubing, try onlinemetals.com or some other
online metal source. GWE
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View entire thread: Working quietly
Posted by Too_Many_Tools on Fri Oct 06, 2006 4:09 AM Post subject: Re: Working quietly
You are getting some good suggestions. The basis concept is that you want to prevent any vibration from transfering
from the machine or workpiece to the environment. You can get thick rubber mats at farm stores that can be used to
prevent vibration from being transmitted from the machine to the floor. You can also buy some sheets of styofoam
insulation to use as buffers between the machine and the neighbors...cheap and light. While cutting or drilling a
workpiece, if you damp the vibration in the length of the workpiece by clamping it you will find much less noise is
made. Noise is caused by vibration...and vibration is largely created by a machine or workpiece being off balance. Take
the time to make sure your machines are running smoothly. Belts can be lumpy and impart vibration to a machine and
workpiece. One approach I took when I was in a similar situation was to tape record a complete work cycle and then
listen to the results. It was amazing to hear the culprits of the major noise producers. When one is actually doing the
work you are distracted and too close to the work to really hear which processes are the worst offenders. Good luck and
let us know what works for you. TMT Ecnerwal wrote: [quote:9162ca96e7]In article
<1160085045.174318.226810@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, dpdphoto@aol.com wrote: When it comes to metals, I work
mainly with aluminum... My biggest problem is where I work. It's a loft space that is commercial/residential. We can get
away with using some machines during the day, but nothing much louder than a small drill press or hand saw. The average
metalworking lathe is no noisier than a drill press, and often quieter. A hand hacksaw should be making quick work of
the chopping for either of those shapes in aluminum, if not the blade is dull, or the wrong blade. Either a power
hacksaw or a small bandsaw should work quietly from a motor noise point of view, but you may need to lube the cut to
keep it from squealing like a pig under some circumstances. For the rod, a hand shear or bolt cutters might work,
depending on what sort of cut end you need. One possibility, especially if you have a high-ceiling-type loft space, is
to build a vibration-isolating, noise-deadening room. You can find information on a variety of ways to do this for
recording studios - the same ideas that keep inside noise in, keep outside noise out. But that assumes that the space is
all-but-permanent (well, some methods are cheaper and more mobile than others). The best option may be moving. I set up
woodworking stuff in a loft/mill building, and when I moved in it was "this is working space, if people choose to
live here it's not your problem to keep quiet at 3 am, it's their problem for living here". I moved out when that
shifted as the place became yuppy housing where no work got done, and the rent went up along with the neighbor hassles.
How committed are you to staying in this space, despite its limitations as working space? If you'll be staying put for
a long time, you might be able to justify sheets of insulation, rubber, and a concrete slab to isolate the floor,
followed by double-studded, insulated, double-sheetrock on both sides with resilient-mounting walls, similar ceiling,
and have a place you can work as loud as you like without anyone noticing. If you can move out to space where working is
an acceptable activity, that might be a lot cheaper. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by[/quote:9162ca96e7]
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View entire thread: Suggestions Rust suppression in tools and tables and lathe b
Posted by Anonymous on Fri Oct 06, 2006 2:01 AM Post subject: Re: Suggestions Rust suppression in tools and tables and lat
Brent wrote: [quote:5a3aaa7ea9]I'm looking for a way to store tools to make them rust resistant. [/quote:5a3aaa7ea9]
Three suggestions in addition: Condensation isn't necessary. You can deal with moisture, there are dehumidifiers
available. Electric ones are good (you do have to drain the water somehow), and dessicant chemicals can be used in a
pinch. Calcium sulphate(?) is rebake-able. Some folk even keep heaters on the important areas of a shop (lots of
welding rod has a light bulb burning nearby, and not for a nightlight). Old tools commonly survived with nothing more
than a film of oil, but it was gummy boiled linseed oil. Doesn't hurt a wood finish, really. It mainly rubs off the
metal, but leaves a glaze. If/when you need to remove rust or use degreasers, a little washing (to remove salt from
fingerprints) and polish (wax and a buffer) will help. I like to follow rust removal with piling small items on a
hotplate, and when they're fully warm, I pick them off and rub down with a parafin-wax impregnated shop rag. A thin
film of wax comes off onto the hot item. When the rag gets dry, just hold a block of paraffin on the next hot item then
rub the item down with the rag.
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View entire thread: What is it? Set 135
Posted by Troy on Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:48 PM Post subject: Re: What is it? Set 135
789. The ball is gas filled to make it almost have zero gravity. This makes it so light that it doesn't have enough
gravity to develop momentum. Therefore it takes a long time to start the rolling. Once the rolling starts of course
it will continue. I would wager that the length of time it takes to roll down the ramp is not linear... that it picks
up speed as it goes along. 788 Button assembler. 786. Since Barr was a toy manufacturer I'm going to wager that that
is a device that determines the tire size for their toys. by adding or removing rings it would control the size. 791
Maple tree corer for getting syrup. Or a soil corer for taking samples. Well, those are my guesses. Unknown wrote:
[quote:9e6824dfaf]On 5 Oct 2006 02:54:05 -0700, "R.H." <rhvp65@gmail.com> wrote: This jack (798) is
standard equipment in a chemistry lab. It is used to set up experiments where you might need to raise and lower part of
the apparatus e.g. a heating mantle. [/quote:9e6824dfaf]
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View entire thread: What is it? Set 135
Posted by Leon on Thu Oct 05, 2006 2:02 PM Post subject: Re: What is it? Set 135
"Troy" <heidimac@iowatelecom.net> wrote in message news:eg2rdq$6gg$1@news.netins.net...
[quote:1d6db2face]789. The ball is gas filled to make it almost have zero gravity. This makes it so light that it
doesn't have enough gravity to develop momentum. Therefore it takes a long time to start the rolling. Once the rolling
starts of course it will continue. I would wager that the length of time it takes to roll down the ramp is not
linear... that it picks up speed as it goes along. [/quote:1d6db2face] I have seen this ball work and it does indeed
continue to roll slowly the length of the ramp.
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View entire thread: Ultra-Low Friction Pivot Bearing?
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:39 PM Post subject: Re: Ultra-Low Friction Pivot Bearing?
Doug White wrote: [quote:d18101c889]I need to make a pair of very low friction pivots for a measurement system. I don't
need much range of motion, say +/- 20 degrees. It's the sort of application where a knife edge would work. I've seen
reference to using carbide for knife edge bearings, and was thinking about using carbide lathe inserts for the
"knives". However, that still leaves me with what sort of material to groove for the knives to rest in. This
supposed to be a "quick and dirty" job, and I'd prefer to avoid having to heat treat the grooved parts. I'm
basically building a pendulum system for measuring the moment of inertia of some irregularly shaped objects. The items
to be measured will be suspended just below a pair of pivots, and set swinging. By knowing the mass and location of the
center of gravity, I can estimate the moment of inertia by measuring the period of the resulting pendulum. Any drag will
damp the swing and screw up my readings. I've thought about just hanging them by a string, but that seems a bit too
crude. Anyone know what sort of string has the lowest flexing losses? Any suggestions for the knife edges, or some
other sort of low friction pivot? The things I'm testing weigh several pounds, so the forces on the pivots aren't tiny,
but they aren't enormous either. Thanks! Doug White [/quote:d18101c889] Hardened steel knife-edges on agate is the
old-time analytical balance pivot, water-hardening drill rod full-hard should do it for knife-edges. One middle-ages
book on assaying recommended using an old sword for knife-edges, high-carbon steel in other words. Take a look at a
powder scale for shape and angle. Size to fit the load. You might be able to substitute TC flats for the agate, would
have to be polished, though. Fused aluminum oxide "sapphire" or "ruby" blocks and rods used to be
available from various supply houses, would be a good substitute for polished agate if they could be found. If you had
some method for restraining the knife-edges from twisting in the vertical plane, you wouldn't need to notch your support
material, stops or some such. Some first-year college quantitative analysis books have extensive sections on balance
construction and design analysis of same. One thing about torsion pivots on balances is they aren't much good for
measuring anything but light weights, as the weight increases, the axis deforms from the ideal straight line and
accuracy declines. Probably the same would happen with your variable mass pendulum on a cross wire support. Stan
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Ron Thompson on Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:11 PM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 07:36:44 +0000, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote: [quote:031fe0248c] "Brent"
<b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1159418616.381333.299070@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... I'm a
machining beginner and i'm working on a harmless first major project a chess set. I picked it because all but one of
the chess peices is symetrical about an axis of rotation (all but the knight) the project in theory shold be simple.
I'm using brass mainly because i have a source of spare round rod and becaue its soft and forgiving on newbies like me
the only question i have is for doing arcs or round ends is lathe filing the only way to round them off? or is there a
method and tooling i'm missing? I'm not using CNC if it wasn't obvious =) thanks Brent Hand grind the desired radii
in HSS blanks, then store them for future use. That's common practice in manual machining. It takes a little practice,
but there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to produce something that will serve the purpose. Use a standard set
of radius gages as a guide for grinding. Remember to provide proper clearance, and, for this case, no rake. Any
rake will alter the form the tool cuts unless you can accomplish the rake with a chip breaker that follows the radius
without changing its relationship to center. That takes considerable skill----likely beyond the ability of someone
learning to sharpen toolbits. If you have a small lathe, you may have trouble with tools with a large cutting area, so
consider the above suggestion carefully. It takes a serious machine to run form tools. They are more forgiving in
free machining brass. Harold [/quote:031fe0248c] There is a work around for not having form tools or a radius or ball
turning attachment. I hesitate to suggest it, because a beginner can get into trouble with it, so be careful! On a lathe
with a compound (the part that sits atop the cross slide and can be adjusted for angles), you can leave the compound
somewhat loose and rotate it by hand as you make light cuts. You need to set the tool away from the part center line by
the radius you want to turn. If you can make some sort of handle sticking out on the opposite side of the pivot from
your cutting tool, it will give you more leverage and control. Be careful not to get into the chuck! This is not
accepted lathe practice. Cutting forces are very high and it is easy to screw up. Google radius attachment or ball
turning attachment and look at how they work. You may find one you want to make.
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:24 PM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
"Ron Thompson" <webmaster@plansandprojects.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.09.28.13.11.39.174775@plansandprojects.com... [quote:0250f0905c]There is a work around for not having form
tools or a radius or ball turning attachment. I hesitate to suggest it, because a beginner can get into trouble with it,
so be careful! On a lathe with a compound (the part that sits atop the cross slide and can be adjusted for angles), you
can leave the compound somewhat loose and rotate it by hand as you make light cuts. You need to set the tool away
[/quote:0250f0905c] There's a simple-to-do, but not simple-to-understand method described in "The Machinist's
Beside Reader" that uses step cuts to approximate a ball, then simple bluing and filing to take out the steps. It
takes much longer to understand the math and learn the method than it takes to actually do. Or... you could run down
to your local radius-turning-tool store and buy a Holdridge Radii attachment. <G> (got one... it's a nice rig)
LLoyd
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Bruno on Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:17 PM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydsp@mindspring.com> wrote: [quote:b70937cc86] "Ron Thompson"
<webmaster@plansandprojects.com> wrote in message news:pan.2006.09.28.13.11.39.174775@plansandprojects.com...
There is a work around for not having form tools or a radius or ball turning attachment. I hesitate to suggest it,
because a beginner can get into trouble with it, so be careful! On a lathe with a compound (the part that sits atop the
cross slide and can be adjusted for angles), you can leave the compound somewhat loose and rotate it by hand as you make
light cuts. You need to set the tool away There's a simple-to-do, but not simple-to-understand method described in
"The Machinist's Beside Reader" that uses step cuts to approximate a ball, then simple bluing and filing to
take out the steps. It takes much longer to understand the math and learn the method than it takes to actually do.
Or... you could run down to your local radius-turning-tool store and buy a Holdridge Radii attachment. <G (got one...
it's a nice rig) LLoyd Guy Lautard's method in "The Machinist's Bedside Reader" uses a[/quote:b70937cc86]
parting tool. I found it far easier to use a plain turning tool and come into the part from the right. The math takes
understanding the formula for a circle, but once you know the formula, you can calculate the cuts. I based my numbers on
the circle being in the second quadrant. The radius end was perfect and took very little time. -Bruno
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Brent on Fri Sep 29, 2006 6:32 AM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
My original plan was to make two or three tangent cuts then smooth the peice via lathe filing although it would be good
practice for lathe filing my overall goal is to learn ways and means to do projects that i can also use on aluminum
steel and stainless. Because my goal is learning more than anything else if given a choice beteween an easy way that
works on brass and a hard way that i can apply to other metals that are not as friendly to machining the hard way is
best in this situation Ron Thompson wrote: [quote:bc4587ee20]On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 07:36:44 +0000, Harold and Susan
Vordos wrote: "Brent" <b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1159418616.381333.299070@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... I'm a machining beginner and i'm working on a harmless
first major project a chess set. I picked it because all but one of the chess peices is symetrical about an axis of
rotation (all but the knight) the project in theory shold be simple. I'm using brass mainly because i have a source of
spare round rod and becaue its soft and forgiving on newbies like me the only question i have is for doing arcs or
round ends is lathe filing the only way to round them off? or is there a method and tooling i'm missing? I'm not using
CNC if it wasn't obvious =) thanks Brent Hand grind the desired radii in HSS blanks, then store them for future use.
That's common practice in manual machining. It takes a little practice, but there's no reason why you shouldn't be able
to produce something that will serve the purpose. Use a standard set of radius gages as a guide for grinding.
Remember to provide proper clearance, and, for this case, no rake. Any rake will alter the form the tool cuts unless
you can accomplish the rake with a chip breaker that follows the radius without changing its relationship to center.
That takes considerable skill----likely beyond the ability of someone learning to sharpen toolbits. If you have a small
lathe, you may have trouble with tools with a large cutting area, so consider the above suggestion carefully. It takes
a serious machine to run form tools. They are more forgiving in free machining brass. Harold There is a work around
for not having form tools or a radius or ball turning attachment. I hesitate to suggest it, because a beginner can get
into trouble with it, so be careful! On a lathe with a compound (the part that sits atop the cross slide and can be
adjusted for angles), you can leave the compound somewhat loose and rotate it by hand as you make light cuts. You need
to set the tool away from the part center line by the radius you want to turn. If you can make some sort of handle
sticking out on the opposite side of the pivot from your cutting tool, it will give you more leverage and control. Be
careful not to get into the chuck! This is not accepted lathe practice. Cutting forces are very high and it is easy to
screw up. Google radius attachment or ball turning attachment and look at how they work. You may find one you want to
make.[/quote:bc4587ee20]
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Eric R Snow on Fri Sep 29, 2006 3:23 PM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
On 28 Sep 2006 22:32:39 -0700, "Brent" <b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote: [quote:a125480f86]My original
plan was to make two or three tangent cuts then smooth the peice via lathe filing although it would be good practice
for lathe filing my overall goal is to learn ways and means to do projects that i can also use on aluminum steel and
stainless. Because my goal is learning more than anything else if given a choice beteween an easy way that works on
brass and a hard way that i can apply to other metals that are not as friendly to machining the hard way is best in this
situation [/quote:a125480f86] Since you plan on filing in the lathe you should make some files with safe edges and
sides. To make a safe edge you need to grind off the teeth on that edge. A belt sander works well for this. Keep the
file cool to avoid softening the teeth. One of the files I use for lathe work has both edges radiused. This way there
isn't any damage done when filing close to a shoulder. Another thing to consider is filing close to the chuck. Files
without handles will get caught and force the tang into your palm or belly. For some reason once the file has a handle
on it this happens less often. But I still often run the lathe in reverse when filing right up against the chuck. The
file is held backwards of course. And when it does catch it is pulled away from you. ERS [quote:a125480f86]Ron Thompson
wrote: On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 07:36:44 +0000, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote: "Brent"
<b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1159418616.381333.299070@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... I'm a
machining beginner and i'm working on a harmless first major project a chess set. I picked it because all but one of
the chess peices is symetrical about an axis of rotation (all but the knight) the project in theory shold be simple.
I'm using brass mainly because i have a source of spare round rod and becaue its soft and forgiving on newbies like me
the only question i have is for doing arcs or round ends is lathe filing the only way to round them off? or is there a
method and tooling i'm missing? I'm not using CNC if it wasn't obvious =) thanks Brent Hand grind the desired radii
in HSS blanks, then store them for future use. That's common practice in manual machining. It takes a little practice,
but there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to produce something that will serve the purpose. Use a standard set
of radius gages as a guide for grinding. Remember to provide proper clearance, and, for this case, no rake. Any
rake will alter the form the tool cuts unless you can accomplish the rake with a chip breaker that follows the radius
without changing its relationship to center. That takes considerable skill----likely beyond the ability of someone
learning to sharpen toolbits. If you have a small lathe, you may have trouble with tools with a large cutting area, so
consider the above suggestion carefully. It takes a serious machine to run form tools. They are more forgiving in
free machining brass. Harold There is a work around for not having form tools or a radius or ball turning attachment.
I hesitate to suggest it, because a beginner can get into trouble with it, so be careful! On a lathe with a compound
(the part that sits atop the cross slide and can be adjusted for angles), you can leave the compound somewhat loose and
rotate it by hand as you make light cuts. You need to set the tool away from the part center line by the radius you want
to turn. If you can make some sort of handle sticking out on the opposite side of the pivot from your cutting tool, it
will give you more leverage and control. Be careful not to get into the chuck! This is not accepted lathe practice.
Cutting forces are very high and it is easy to screw up. Google radius attachment or ball turning attachment and look at
how they work. You may find one you want to make.[/quote:a125480f86]
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View entire thread: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
Posted by Harold and Susan Vordos on Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:10 AM Post subject: Re: Making Round forms on a metal lathe
s "Andrew VK3BFA" <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote in message
news:1159523830.755793.49630@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... snip------ [quote:bf42e61bef] *****GLOOM***** - thanks
Harold. I still dont understand much of what you are saying, but will dig out the textbooks and try and figure it out
(dont speak Engineering fluently yet, its a new language to me...) [/quote:bf42e61bef] Do not despair. Some of us
don't grasp the concept initially----but unless you're hopeless, the light will come on and things will make sense.
Cutting tools, in particular, are very simple to grind, but you must first understand why they cut. Once that's
entrenched in your head, and you understand how clearance and rake affect performance, it's dead easy to design tools
for specific chores. snip great report of class, methods, people and progress---- [quote:bf42e61bef] But I will get
there, - thanks Harold for answering my questions (and the other people as well - much appreciated). Was it Gunner a
few days ago said that this is a truly infuriating occupation - so much effort needed to get some basic competence in
the field? [/quote:bf42e61bef] That's a common complaint I have----along with the related lack of respect for those that
have paid dues to achieve a level of competence by a select few that don't understand that making chips isn't the same
as making parts. Nothing sorts them out quicker than building a part to prints specs, which will be inspected by an
unbiased inspector that's looking for nothing more than good and proper work. Some folks can't put it together.
[quote:bf42e61bef]And I am getting there, albeit slowly - understanding more of whats being discussed here, texts are
starting to make more sense. And, starting to be able to work to tolerance consistently most of the time (oh, ok - 4
out of five times, better than a few months ago..) Andrew VK3BFA. [/quote:bf42e61bef] Exactly! One does not eat
an elephant in one gulp----it's done a bite at a time----and suddenly the elephant is gone. You'll do fine, Andrew.
Have patience, and do your best. What's important is your attitude. If you care, and choose to learn good and proper
procedures, you will. If, on the other hand, you choose to use every dodge one can fathom to avoid the learning curve,
that's likely to be the outcome as well. You have a choice of becoming a good machinist, or a good bullshit artist
that claims he can, but can't. You mentioned being an old fart, Andrew. How old? I believe I mentioned somewhere
that I turned 67 in July. I feel every one of those years. Harold
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View entire thread: New Plan -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?
Posted by Don Young on Thu Sep 28, 2006 3:44 AM Post subject: Re: New Plan -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?
"Ignoramus15447" <ignoramus15447@NOSPAM.15447.invalid> wrote in message
news:ADySg.55663$KZ6.45426@fe83.usenetserver.com... [quote:e40f7104c6]On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 17:13:29 GMT, beekeep
<honeybs@radix.net> wrote: On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447
ignoramus15447@NOSPAM.15447.invalid> wrote: OK guys... My plan for now is as follows. 0. The noises that I have are
of two distinct kinds, a whining noise that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear at low
speeds. 1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer. 2. I will take off the diff cover again, and
will try to adjust the adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to measure backlash. I hope (and
would like you to confirm) that I can do it using a screwdriver through the access hole. Don't do this. 3. If I cannot
get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie
where to place the pins etc). No pins! A hex fits into the hole of the adjuster. Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was
not that expensive. 4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining noise is gone. If not, I will
take the truck to a dealer. I realize that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to trashed
bearings. 5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and replace the bearings that may have caused the
grinding noise. I am not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together correctly. Does this plan make
sense? If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while you have it open? Because I
am not sure what the issue it. It is easy enough to open the diff and pull the axles the second time. i I seriously
doubt that adjusting the backlash is going to be anything but a[/quote:e40f7104c6] waste of time. If the rear end needs
work the only logical procedure is to disassemble it and have a good look at all of the bearings and gears. Then
either get another rear end or replace the damaged parts and adjust it correctly. The only possible exception would be
if the non-functional lock resulted in the loss of correct adjustment but no damage to gears or bearings. This seems
very unlikely, especially since metal particles were found. In light of all that has been discovered and done, I
believe you have damaged pinion bearings. The carrier bearings, gears and remaining axle bearing would all be suspect
and are best examined after disassembly. If you feel adventurous, go for a rebuild. You will certainly learn from it.
It is not difficult but requires patience, decent mechanical skills, and a willingness to follow directions carefully.
I would definitely disassemble it, even if I decided to replace it. Don Young
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View entire thread: New Plan -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?
Posted by Ignoramus20860 on Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:09 PM Post subject: Re: New Plan -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 21:44:55 -0500, Don Young <notme@nonesuch.com> wrote: [quote:7ffc9f9011]
"Ignoramus15447" <ignoramus15447@NOSPAM.15447.invalid> wrote in message
news:ADySg.55663$KZ6.45426@fe83.usenetserver.com... On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 17:13:29 GMT, beekeep <honeybs@radix.net>
wrote: On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447 ignoramus15447@NOSPAM.15447.invalid> wrote: OK guys... My
plan for now is as follows. 0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise that appears when I
ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear at low speeds. 1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from
the dealer. 2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the adjuster lock to reduce backlash to
spec, using a dia