View entire thread: Needlework Forum in Italy - May 2007
Posted by Jeanine3 on Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:47 AM Post subject: Needlework Forum in Italy - May 2007
Hello Everyone! I'm forwarding a press release that was sent to me by the folks who host a Needlework Forum in Rimini,
Italy. This is their third show (previously 2003 and 2005). I know that they are well attended by European English-
speaking needleworkers and thought this information might be of interest to those lucky enough to be able to afford to
go. I know that their last show was attended by several Americans and at least one Canadian from one of the Lace
Guilds in Quebec. They make a huge effort to make information available in english and other languages. Hope this is of
interest. Jeanine in Canada no affiliation, etc., etc. ____________________________ Dear lacemakers and embroiderers,
Good morning from Italy! Just a short message with the aim of drawing your attention on the dates, program and new
location of 2007 Italia Invita. I am attaching a press release, but more details can be found on www.italiainvita.it -
in 5 languages. I would be very grateful if you could forward this information to friends and people you know, who
would be interested in our event. Thank you for your attention Fiorella For Press Release The event The third Italia
Invita International Forum of Lace and Embroidery, a biennial event, will be held at Palacongressi of Rimini Riviera –
Via della Fiera 52 from 4th to 6th May 2007. Theme: Research and Development. The rich Italian heritage has attracted
visitors to the first and second forums from over 20 countries, including some overseas. Approx. 75 stands, each
dedicated to one technique of Lace and Embroidery. Exhibitors are a selection of associations, artisans, laboratories
from all over Italy. It will be a journey through the textile culture of all Italian regions with works specially
created for the event. In every stand teachers will be available for demonstrations. Ateliers The participants badge
or the entrance ticket will entitle you to attend free two hour ateliers to choose among all techniques exhibited in
the stands. Other Exhibitions The Works of Luciana Doff Sotta The Works entered for Il Colore The Cushions – a parade
of the works presented by all exhibitors. Dealers Hall Over 30 dealers specialized in articles for lace and embroidery
from Italy and many European countries (Spain, France, Germany, Belgium, Finland, Denmark, Czech republic,
Switzerland, Great Britain …) will offer cloth and threads in silk, cotton, linen, hem and the most varied equipment:
special lamps, looms, bobbins, pillows, books, patterns, kits…. And more Free expertise (maximum 2 pieces) given by
museums consultants, museum shops, meeting rooms, Elisa Ricci space, special Stamp Cancellation from Italian Mail and
more, a rendezvous not to be missed. Registrations (cheaper before Dec 15th) It is possible to buy a Forum special
package, including 3 nights half board accommodation in a luxurious 4 star Hotel on Rimini beach, Forum badge, welcome
drink and gala dinner. Form and details in Italia Invita website. Incentives for Group registrations and day visits
Opening times for registered participants and day visitors 9.30 – 18.30 (Sunday 18.00) Entrance ticket € 18
http://www.italiainvita.it/ offers all event related details in 5 languages. For further questions, please contact:
info@italiainvita.it or +39 3480394421. You will get immediate reply.
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View entire thread: Needlework Forum in Italy - May 2007
Posted by The Lady Gardener on Fri Oct 27, 2006 6:49 AM Post subject: Re: Needlework Forum in Italy - May 2007
Thank you so much for posting this - it would be a perfect fit for me......I wonder if I have any annual leave left?
So so so tempting! Joanne in a hot and summery Western Australia "Jeanine3" <jea467@netscape.net>
wrote in message news:nOb0h.193490$5R2.15637@pd7urf3no... Hello Everyone! I'm forwarding a press release that was sent
to me by the folks who host a Needlework Forum in Rimini, Italy. This is their third show (previously 2003 and 2005). I
know that they are well attended by European English-speaking needleworkers and thought this information might be of
interest to those lucky enough to be able to afford to go. I know that their last show was attended by several Americans
and at least one Canadian from one of the Lace Guilds in Quebec. They make a huge effort to make information available
in english and other languages. Hope this is of interest. Jeanine in Canada no affiliation, etc., etc.
____________________________ Dear lacemakers and embroiderers, Good morning from Italy! Just a short message with the
aim of drawing your attention on the dates, program and new location of 2007 Italia Invita. I am attaching a press
release, but more details can be found on www.italiainvita.it - in 5 languages. I would be very grateful if you could
forward this information to friends and people you know, who would be interested in our event. Thank you for your
attention Fiorella For Press Release The event The third Italia Invita International Forum of Lace and Embroidery, a
biennial event, will be held at Palacongressi of Rimini Riviera – Via della Fiera 52 from 4th to 6th May 2007. Theme:
Research and Development. The rich Italian heritage has attracted visitors to the first and second forums from over 20
countries, including some overseas. Approx. 75 stands, each dedicated to one technique of Lace and Embroidery.
Exhibitors are a selection of associations, artisans, laboratories from all over Italy. It will be a journey through
the textile culture of all Italian regions with works specially created for the event. In every stand teachers will be
available for demonstrations. Ateliers The participants badge or the entrance ticket will entitle you to attend free
two hour ateliers to choose among all techniques exhibited in the stands. Other Exhibitions The Works of Luciana Doff
Sotta The Works entered for Il Colore The Cushions – a parade of the works presented by all exhibitors. Dealers Hall
Over 30 dealers specialized in articles for lace and embroidery from Italy and many European countries (Spain, France,
Germany, Belgium, Finland, Denmark, Czech republic, Switzerland, Great Britain …) will offer cloth and threads in silk,
cotton, linen, hem and the most varied equipment: special lamps, looms, bobbins, pillows, books, patterns, kits…. And
more Free expertise (maximum 2 pieces) given by museums consultants, museum shops, meeting rooms, Elisa Ricci space,
special Stamp Cancellation from Italian Mail and more, a rendezvous not to be missed. Registrations (cheaper before
Dec 15th) It is possible to buy a Forum special package, including 3 nights half board accommodation in a luxurious 4
star Hotel on Rimini beach, Forum badge, welcome drink and gala dinner. Form and details in Italia Invita website.
Incentives for Group registrations and day visits Opening times for registered participants and day visitors 9.30 –
18.30 (Sunday 18.00) Entrance ticket € 18 http://www.italiainvita.it/ offers all event related details in 5 languages.
For further questions, please contact: info@italiainvita.it or +39 3480394421. You will get immediate reply.
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View entire thread: Nordic Needle mini rant
Posted by Cheryl Isaak on Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:24 PM Post subject: Nordic Needle mini rant
Well, I've never ordered from Nordic Needle before, but my DS gave me $$$ for a belated b'day gift. And I had just
gotten my fall catalog and it had clip lamps on sale. And I ordered a Krenik silk kit and a Simply Old Fashioned chart.
Well, yesterday, I got my box and opened it after the boys went to hockey. My clip lamp and Krenik kit was in it and a
note that the chart was discontinued. Well if it was discontinued, why was it still on the website??? And why didn't
they notify me???? Grrr. Well, there is an upside, I can still get it (at full price) from Simply Old Fashioned and
there is a new piece in the tree series. Cheryl
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View entire thread: Nordic Needle mini rant
Posted by Karen C - California on Sun Oct 08, 2006 6:54 PM Post subject: Re: Nordic Needle mini rant
Cheryl Isaak wrote: [quote:09044bb66d]Well, I've never ordered from Nordic Needle before, but my DS gave me $$$ for a
belated b'day gift. And I had just gotten my fall catalog and it had clip lamps on sale. And I ordered a Krenik silk kit
and a Simply Old Fashioned chart. Well, yesterday, I got my box and opened it after the boys went to hockey. My clip
lamp and Krenik kit was in it and a note that the chart was discontinued. Well if it was discontinued, why was it still
on the website??? And why didn't they notify me???? Grrr. Well, there is an upside, I can still get it (at full price)
from Simply Old Fashioned and there is a new piece in the tree series. Cheryl [/quote:09044bb66d] Personally, I was
not impressed by the quality of customer service vis-a-vis the S&H cost. I just looked through my NN catalogue and
then fired off an e-mail to www.needledelights.com inquiring how much of the shopping list she could get for me. The
customer service is superb, the S&H is much lower, and I get the stuff within a few days instead of weeks. --
Karen C - California www.CFSfacts.org where we give you the facts and dispel the myths October is Disability Awareness
Month Finished 10/1/06 - Hats N Kats WIP: baby and housewarming gifts, July birthstone, Flowers of Hawaii (Jeanette
Crews) for ME!!! Retrieved from UFO pile: Marbek's Snow Angel LTR: Fireman's Prayer (#2), Amid Amish Life, Angel of
Autumn, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe Editor/Proofreader www.KarenMCampbell.com Design page
http://www.KarenMCampbell.com/designs.html
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View entire thread: Nordic Needle mini rant
Posted by Cheryl Isaak on Sun Oct 08, 2006 7:14 PM Post subject: Re: Nordic Needle mini rant
On 10/8/06 1:54 PM, in article 4oss8vFg0rtvU1@individual.net, "Karen C - California" <KMC528@aol.com>
wrote: [quote:18d0ab5e71]Cheryl Isaak wrote: Well, I've never ordered from Nordic Needle before, but my DS gave me $$$
for a belated b'day gift. And I had just gotten my fall catalog and it had clip lamps on sale. And I ordered a Krenik
silk kit and a Simply Old Fashioned chart. Well, yesterday, I got my box and opened it after the boys went to hockey. My
clip lamp and Krenik kit was in it and a note that the chart was discontinued. Well if it was discontinued, why was it
still on the website??? And why didn't they notify me???? Grrr. Well, there is an upside, I can still get it (at full
price) from Simply Old Fashioned and there is a new piece in the tree series. Cheryl Personally, I was not
impressed by the quality of customer service vis-a-vis the S&H cost. I just looked through my NN catalogue and then
fired off an e-mail to www.needledelights.com inquiring how much of the shopping list she could get for me. The
customer service is superb, the S&H is much lower, and I get the stuff within a few days instead of weeks.
[/quote:18d0ab5e71] I'll see if my LNS can get Simply Old Fashioned first. Even factoring in the S&H, I think I did
ok! and I still have extra cash to spend now!
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View entire thread: Nordic Needle mini rant
Posted by Anonymous on Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:49 AM Post subject: Re: Nordic Needle mini rant
Cheryl Isaak wrote: [quote:f81989323b]Well, I've never ordered from Nordic Needle before, but my DS gave me $$$ for a
belated b'day gift. And I had just gotten my fall catalog and it had clip lamps on sale. And I ordered a Krenik silk kit
and a Simply Old Fashioned chart. Well, yesterday, I got my box and opened it after the boys went to hockey. My clip
lamp and Krenik kit was in it and a note that the chart was discontinued. Well if it was discontinued, why was it still
on the website??? And why didn't they notify me???? Grrr. Well, there is an upside, I can still get it (at full price)
from Simply Old Fashioned and there is a new piece in the tree series. Cheryl [/quote:f81989323b] Didn't you have
anything else in stash you could work on ???? RDH
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View entire thread: Nordic Needle mini rant
Posted by Cheryl Isaak on Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:28 PM Post subject: Re: Nordic Needle mini rant
On 10/15/06 5:49 AM, in article 1160905787.918869.205840@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com,
"lucretia.borgia@gmail.com" <lucretia.borgia@gmail.com> wrote: [quote:56c8d52573] Cheryl Isaak wrote:
Well, I've never ordered from Nordic Needle before, but my DS gave me $$$ for a belated b'day gift. And I had just
gotten my fall catalog and it had clip lamps on sale. And I ordered a Krenik silk kit and a Simply Old Fashioned chart.
Well, yesterday, I got my box and opened it after the boys went to hockey. My clip lamp and Krenik kit was in it and a
note that the chart was discontinued. Well if it was discontinued, why was it still on the website??? And why didn't
they notify me???? Grrr. Well, there is an upside, I can still get it (at full price) from Simply Old Fashioned and
there is a new piece in the tree series. Cheryl Didn't you have anything else in stash you could work on ???? RDH
That wasn't the point. I saw it, I loved it, I WANTED IT![/quote:56c8d52573] C
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View entire thread: Car trouble....
Posted by Larry Jaques on Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:01 AM Post subject: Re: Car trouble....
On 19 Oct 2006 15:31:23 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "TheAndroid" <a_w_abate@yahoo.com> quickly
quoth: [quote:5a6aa4e8b1]I own a 1974 Cadillac Eldorado convertible which has a passenger door which will not open. I
think the door unlock mechanism is rusted up. The key doesn't turn the cylinder and you cannot open it from inside
[/quote:5a6aa4e8b1] Does it turn slightly in the cylinder but the shaft attached to it won't operate the latch lever?
[quote:5a6aa4e8b1]the car as the handle will lift a short distance and then quit moving. I dearly love this car and
don't want to have to cut into it to open the door. So I'm asking y'all if you have any ideas on how to go about getting
the door open. If I could do that, I could take the inner panel off and get at the lock/latch mechanism inside and
repair it. [/quote:5a6aa4e8b1] Try to oil up the door latch with a can of Kroil sprayed down between the window and the
door panel. 500w halogen lamps help light the tiny area for you, shone from the windshield down the window line at the
latch. Some cars are easier with the window down, but most are better with it up. I did a lot of work on doors in my
last life wrenchin' at the body shop. With the window up and the top down, aim the spray tube down the inside or
outside of the window channel, whichever way puts you closest to the latch mechanism. You can better aim it with a coat
hanger stuffed down next to it as a guide if it's not a clear shot. Bend the hanger so there's a hook you can use to aim
the spray tube. Also spray Kroil from the outside of the car at all angles into the latch. After doing this, continue
to move the inside door handle to attempt opening. Bump the outside of the door so the latch is jostled repeatedly. You
might have to do this for days until it decides to open, but you won't have to lose a door panel over it. Important:
Once you have the door open, _replace_the_latch_! Note: Unless it's a frozen lock, a locksmith probably won't be of
much help because the latch is held in from the outside of the door panel end. And since you said it wouldn't open from
the inside either, it points to the latch mechanism itself. G'luck, and let us know how many jostles it took, eh?
------------------------------------------ Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------ http://diversify.com Full-Service Web Development
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View entire thread: Car trouble....
Posted by Roger Shoaf on Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:08 AM Post subject: Re: Car trouble....
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:i57gj2938k4l3kch72mhfre02342nncgfv@4ax.com... [quote:cfd245f8fd]On 19 Oct 2006 15:31:23 -0700, with neither quill
nor qualm, "TheAndroid" <a_w_abate@yahoo.com> quickly quoth: I own a 1974 Cadillac Eldorado convertible
which has a passenger door which will not open. I think the door unlock mechanism is rusted up. The key doesn't turn the
cylinder and you cannot open it from inside Does it turn slightly in the cylinder but the shaft attached to it won't
operate the latch lever? the car as the handle will lift a short distance and then quit moving. I dearly love this car
and don't want to have to cut into it to open the door. So I'm asking y'all if you have any ideas on how to go about
getting the door open. If I could do that, I could take the inner panel off and get at the lock/latch mechanism inside
and repair it. Try to oil up the door latch with a can of Kroil sprayed down between the window and the door panel.
500w halogen lamps help light the tiny area for you, shone from the windshield down the window line at the latch. Some
cars are easier with the window down, but most are better with it up. I did a lot of work on doors in my last life
wrenchin' at the body shop. With the window up and the top down, aim the spray tube down the inside or outside of the
window channel, whichever way puts you closest to the latch mechanism. You can better aim it with a coat hanger stuffed
down next to it as a guide if it's not a clear shot. Bend the hanger so there's a hook you can use to aim the spray
tube. Also spray Kroil from the outside of the car at all angles into the latch. After doing this, continue to move
the inside door handle to attempt opening. Bump the outside of the door so the latch is jostled repeatedly. You might
have to do this for days until it decides to open, but you won't have to lose a door panel over it. Important: Once you
have the door open, _replace_the_latch_! Note: Unless it's a frozen lock, a locksmith probably won't be of much help
because the latch is held in from the outside of the door panel end. And since you said it wouldn't open from the inside
either, it points to the latch mechanism itself. G'luck, and let us know how many jostles it took, eh?
[/quote:cfd245f8fd] Larry, As a locksmith I have opened many doors and I would take issue with what you suggest. First
off the latches are seldom the culprit. About the only time they fail is if the hinge never gets lube and then only on
the drivers side and only after having to slam the snot out of the door for years allowing the latch to ride on the
strike pin. This kind of failure usually prevents the latch from latching. The fact that this is the passenger door
suggests to me that the latch is OK. Usually the problem is a disconnected linkage, but I did have one case that drove
me for a loop. It was a Toyota and the window had been broken. one of the little chunks of tempered glass had dropped
into the latch and wedged it. Spraying massive amounts of lube inside the door will usually just mean that you are
constantly having to clean oil film off your window once the oil gets into the window fuzzy seals. -- Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff.
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View entire thread: VFDs, Does it make a difference?
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:58 PM Post subject: Re: VFDs, Does it make a difference?
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 22:54:10 -0400, Joseph Gwinn <JoeGwinn@comcast.net> wrote: [quote:e9119212c3]In article
<p8c6j2l3joi9c7hu855ehe3jn421qgkv6l@4ax.com>, Gunner Asch <gunner@NoSpam.lightspeed.net> wrote: The
braking resistor is important, if you are swinging a big chuck, or a heavily loaded drive train..ie gear boxs with lots
of inertia. On anything other than a direct drive lathe, I'd tend to go with a braking resistor. When you do a high
speed reverse or a 2 second stop..that hysterisis current has to go somewhere. The bigger the load..the more that's
generated. Yes. But it's mainly the rotational energy of all that spinning metal that must go somewhere. What's
happening is that the motor briefly acts as a generator, converting mechanical energy to electrical energy, which the
braking resistor converts to thermal energy. I would also add that one can choose how fast the motor will stop by
choosing the resistance of the braking resistor. The smaller the value (ohms) the faster it stops. And the higher the
required power rating of the braking resistor. One poster said that because his lathe chuck was threaded to the
spindle, he could not use braking. This is a matter of degree - a slow braking (high resistance) would be OK. One can
in theory compute the proper braking resistance value, but I think it's quicker to just try some values. And there is
no reason that the heater elements from a toaster wouldn't work, as somebody suggested. Joe Gwinn [/quote:e9119212c3]
The braking resistor is automatically switched into circuit by a separate semiconductor - usually an SCR or triac. The
power rating of this switching element is entirely at the choice of the VFD manufacturer and is not necessarily related
to the power rating of the VFD. There is no "proper" value of the braking resistor - the lower the
value the more braking that is possible but NOT lower that the manufacturers recommendation as this could damage the
switching element. Series or parallel connected domestic heating devices are the cheapest form of power
resistor but remember that the "hot" resistance can be a lot higher than the measured "cold"
resistance. Filament lamps are not suitable because of the very high ratio (>6:1) of hot to cold resistance.
Jim -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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View entire thread: Harbor Freight's "machinist vise"
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Oct 10, 2006 4:12 AM Post subject: Re: Harbor Freight's "machinist vise"
I ran into similar Chinese logic a couple of years ago when I purchased several swing-arm lamps with magnifying lenses.
The kind with a circular fluorescent lamp. They were well-made, the magnifying lense was well made and worked well for
the assembly people. I thought I had made a great buy! Then, one day, a lamp burned out. I got a spare from the store
and commensed to replace the old one. Strange! the connector on the new bulb would not turn to fit the 4-pin connector.
I got another spare and tried it. Same problem. I put the old bulb back in and the connector mated up just fine. Then I
took the bulb from a second light from the same purchase and it worked in the first lamp, but the spares would not fit
either. I had to toss out each of the swing arm lamps when the bulb burned out. I concluded some factory in China had
made millions of the circular fluorescent bulbs with the connector positioned incorrectly. Rather than trash the bulbs,
they built swing-arm lamps to fit and sold them at really low prices to dumb Americans who would know the error until it
was too late! Paul [quote:cca44f770e] It does not look like an accuracy issue, more like idiotic design or sloppy
manufacturing process. The screws leads are different for no reason. The leads are odd ball numbers neither metric nor
English. Pitch is not something you can improve accuracy, it comes from gear ratios, some knucklehead at the factory
must have picked a set of change gear at random. They had a run of wrongly machined screws, they made matching nuts and
sold them to HF. Next batch is probably all different again. Mauro[/quote:cca44f770e]
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View entire thread: Harbor Freight's "machinist vise"
Posted by Tom Del Rosso on Thu Oct 12, 2006 4:14 AM Post subject: Re: Harbor Freight's "machinist vise"
<pdrahn@coinet.com> wrote in message news:1160449925.302542.54760@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com [quote:8bbbae0be2] I
had to toss out each of the swing arm lamps when the bulb burned out. I concluded some factory in China had made
millions of the circular fluorescent bulbs with the connector positioned incorrectly. Rather than trash the bulbs, they
built swing-arm lamps to fit and sold them at really low prices to dumb Americans who would know the error until it was
too late! [/quote:8bbbae0be2] The bad news is that Chinese manufacturers have a lot to learn, but the worse news is that
one day they will learn it. -- Reply in group, but if emailing add another zero, and remove the last word.
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View entire thread: I need some 24V H3 bulbs - anyone wanna trade for a Coromill
Posted by Robert Swinney on Tue Oct 10, 2006 2:49 PM Post subject: Re: I need some 24V H3 bulbs - anyone wanna trade for a Coro
You might want to try Graybar. I know at one time they stocked 12 V lamps. Bob Swinney "Gunner"
<gunner@lightspeed.net> wrote in message news:qdqmi2hnt04pfh1pealpuoidqevkfh0p20@4ax.com... [quote:a05cb97579]On
Mon, 9 Oct 2006 20:47:54 -0700, "William Noble" <nobody@nowhere.com wrote: you are right of course - I can
get these from my friendly local INDEPENDENT auto parts place no problem - the big chains don't carry them, NAPA may, as
do the specialty places, but what I was hoping to do via this post was to see if a trade could be worked whereby I would
pass of an expensive tool that I don't need for some (less) expensive bulbs that I do need so that someone and I could
both benefit..... If nothing comes up in the next few days, I'll just buy some bulbs at about $10 each. I can get
them for less via an internet purchase, but shipping eats up the difference and I dont' support my local supplier that
way. $10 Each??? Wtf? Are they gold plated??? Gunner "*" <nospam@this.addy.com> wrote in message
news:01c6ebe5$56a48ae0$bc95c3d8@race... William Noble <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in article
4529e245$0$19647$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>... ok, I need some bulbs for lights on my lathe and mill, what I need
are 24V H3 bulbs (I'd like a some each of 35, 50 and 70 watt, but ???) If you have a NAPA Auto Parts store nearby
with a decent counterman who knows how to read the bulb catalog, he should be able to provide your 24V bulb needs. As I
recall from my NAPA days, there were a couple of pages in the catalog that listed 24V truck versions of typical 12V
automotive bulbs - showing the crossover. "A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for
them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3[/quote:a05cb97579]
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View entire thread: shank adapter, extension rod, button bit, thread bit,taper b
Posted by Anonymous on Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:22 AM Post subject: shank adapter, extension rod, button bit, thread bit,taper b
We, DVY INTERNATIONAL,(E-mail: drills@sinodrills.com, MSN:wsb316@hotmail.com, website: http://www.sinodrills.com)are
one supplier, specializing in exporting those rock drilling equipments, as following, --DTH (down the hole) hammers and
bits & ODEX, pilot bit, guide sleeves, guide device; --Diamond core drilling tools (NQ, BQ, HQ, PQ): diamond core
bits, reaming shells/reamer, reaming tools, core barrel, casing shoe; --Top hammer drilling equipment: button bit,
chisel bit, cross bit, tapered bit, thread bit, integral drill rod, tapered rod, striking bar, shank adapters, extension
rod, drifter rod, paving rod, pick rod, coupling sleeves, M/F speed rod, roller bit, rock bit, quarrying, and mining
equipments, hollow drill steel; --Rock anchor drilling tools: anchor rods, anchor bits, friction bolts; Furnace tapping
tools: furnace rods, furnace bits; --Rock drills: air-leg (jack-leg) rock drill, pneumatic rock drills, hand-held rock
drill, internal combustion rock drill, motor-driven rock drill, open cast, open pit, surface and underground
mining/quarrying, pick hammer tools, tunnelling equipment ; --Drag bits: 3-wings, 4-wings, step type and V-type; --Mine
lamp (helmet lamps).
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View entire thread: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven contr
Posted by William Noble on Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:27 AM Post subject: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven contr
here's the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&item=300019881066 it's a 16.7 amp variac,
120 vac input - should be useful for controlling the speed of brush motors, controlling the heat from infrared lamps or
in a small oven, or anything else where you need to control the AC voltage. Because it's a vairable transformer, you
won't have the noise that solid state devices inject into the electrical lines - old technology that works can be cool
- of course I like playing with new electronics and old machinery, so I guess I have a foot in both camps, so to speak.
Selling for a friend, it has been in his garage for decades. -- bill to email me, to to my web page, www.wbnoble.com
and find my email or unscramble the following by removing spaces and correcting the obvious spelling errors wil lia
m_b_n obl e at msn daught com -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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View entire thread: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven contr
Posted by Lew Hartswick on Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:22 AM Post subject: Re: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven c
William Noble wrote: [quote:008b34cb04]here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&item=300019881066 it's a 16.7 amp variac, 120 vac input -
should be useful for controlling the speed of brush motors, controlling the heat from infrared lamps or in a small oven,
or anything else where you need to control the AC voltage. Because it's a vairable transformer, you won't have the noise
that solid state devices inject into the electrical lines - old technology that works can be cool - of course I like
playing with new electronics and old machinery, so I guess I have a foot in both camps, so to speak. Selling for a
friend, it has been in his garage for decades. If you get any excess wantabee buyers, I have a couple but am NOT
in[/quote:008b34cb04] the auction business. a Powerstat type 1226 115 / 230 2.5 KVA and a Variac type 100 2 KVA I'd
like to get rid of but they weigh a bunch and shipping would be dear. :-) ...lew...
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View entire thread: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven contr
Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on Tue Aug 22, 2006 2:53 AM Post subject: Re: FA: 2 KW variac - useful for motor speed control, oven c
Are they linear or log based windings. If log based then they are useful on stage light controls. Many a stage
electrical type begs to have a spare or one that works. Even the linears are ok - not as nice - so ask around locally -
in the park type - local troupe or local show of some type ? Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our
computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter
Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member http://lufkinced.com/ Lew Hartswick wrote:
[quote:d60b088bc6]William Noble wrote: here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&item=300019881066 it's a 16.7 amp variac, 120 vac input -
should be useful for controlling the speed of brush motors, controlling the heat from infrared lamps or in a small oven,
or anything else where you need to control the AC voltage. Because it's a vairable transformer, you won't have the noise
that solid state devices inject into the electrical lines - old technology that works can be cool - of course I like
playing with new electronics and old machinery, so I guess I have a foot in both camps, so to speak. Selling for a
friend, it has been in his garage for decades. If you get any excess wantabee buyers, I have a couple but am NOT in the
auction business. a Powerstat type 1226 115 / 230 2.5 KVA and a Variac type 100 2 KVA I'd like to get rid of but
they weigh a bunch and shipping would be dear. :-) ...lew... [/quote:d60b088bc6] ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com -
Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
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View entire thread: What is it? CXXVI
Posted by Carla Fong on Thu Aug 03, 2006 3:53 PM Post subject: Re: What is it? CXXVI
735: Telephone 'Busy' and 'Ring' indicator lamps from an old PABX system. (These used incandescent lamps) Carla R.H.
wrote: [quote:eb00134ea0]This week's set of photos has just been posted: http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/ Rob
[/quote:eb00134ea0]
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View entire thread: What is it? CXXVI
Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:08 AM Post subject: Re: What is it? CXXVI
735 - My guess is a deaf persons phone/door (white) or fire/etc (red) lamp. Without hearing, different sounds we
normally relate to has to be done in lamps. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer
lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA
and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member http://lufkinced.com/ DoN. Nichols wrote: [quote:f209344a13]According
to R.H. <rhvp67@cinci.rr.com>: This week's set of photos has just been posted: http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/
As always, posting from rec.crafts.metalworking. 732) This is for filing the edge of some flat material. The teeth
of the file are too fine to make wood a choice, and really too fine for many aluminum alloys, but Plexiglas,
steel, brass, or quite a few other materials will do. Thinking it over -- filing Plexiglas square is a
necessary preparation for solvent gluing the edges to make something like an aquarium or something
similar. 733) This one I would guess (and it is *only* a guess) is part of a music stand -- the part on
which the bottom edge of the sheet music rests. Another part would slide onto the same metal tongue on
which this clamps to offer back support for the music. Whether it is part of a stand-alone stand, or one which
is part of something like an organ I have no idea. 734) Based on the size and the apparent material, my
guess is is a handle for picking up a pyrex lid to some cookware -- picking it up by the knob on top.
735) Some sort of indicator. Perhaps to go over the door to an airlock to say when it is safe to open.
Perhaps for a conference phone. Perhaps for any of a large number of other possibilities. 736) An
interesting variant of a splitter chisel for removing old mufflers from exhaust pipes. This one looks as though
it can be held by the long part while the short part is used for the splitting -- keeping the user's
hand out of range of the hammer, or once it is started by the short arm, you can switch to the long
chisel, which would be pretty much self supporting while you hammer on it. 737) A "lazy dog"
bomblet. No explosive, just mass. They were dropped from airplanes in large quantities, the fins assured
that they oriented pointed end down, for optimum aerodynamics. The material which I have seen before was lead,
though this one appears to have a steel outer skin from the apparent rust. Falling from a significant
height, they would reach a velocity similar to one fired from a gun, but the odds of hitting a standing
person would be lower, thanks to the smaller cross-sectional area of a vertical view of the person. Now to see
what others have suggested. Enjoy, DoN. [/quote:f209344a13] ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com -
Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
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View entire thread: What is it? CXXVI
Posted by Bart Byers on Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:21 AM Post subject: Re: What is it? CXXVI
Carla Fong wrote: [quote:450a263831]735: Telephone 'Busy' and 'Ring' indicator lamps from an old PABX system. (These
used incandescent lamps) Carla It looks like a good design for a reading light on the bridge of a[/quote:450a263831]
fishing boat, for example, or to light a passageway to the bridge. In port you use white. At sea you leave a red
light on in the passageway and use a red light on the bridge to see a chart. If the lenses screw in, it would be easy
to change a bulb in the dark. If they have rubber gaskets, the fixture could protect the contents from salty mist in
the air.
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View entire thread: articulated arms for beading lamps
Posted by BentPedals on Wed Jun 07, 2006 3:46 PM Post subject: articulated arms for beading lamps
Looking for design ideas for an articulated arm to support lamps while beading. The cardboard box and newspaper trick
has work well for years with panel lamps, but I'd like to step it up a bit with the 18" Worden dragonfly I'm doing.
Currently considering using copper pipe, or 2" sq. oak arms. Design ideas, refinements, and cautions would be
appreciated.
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View entire thread: articulated arms for beading lamps
Posted by Edward Hennessey on Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:47 PM Post subject: Re: articulated arms for beading lamps
BentPedals <noemail@rogers.com> wrote in message news:48pd82le7l5vj4k7736qot0erfa09me68o@4ax.com...
[quote:7d753769c5] Looking for design ideas for an articulated arm to support lamps while beading. The cardboard box
and newspaper trick has work well for years with panel lamps, but I'd like to step it up a bit with the 18" Worden
dragonfly I'm doing. Currently considering using copper pipe, or 2" sq. oak arms. Design ideas, refinements, and
cautions would be appreciated.[/quote:7d753769c5] B.P.: I don't have the information with me but if you search under
("gaffer's supplies" OR "gaffer's equipment" OR "gaffer's tools"), you will find some
rewarding ideas. Briefly, a gaffer is the person in Hollywood charged with rigging all the lighting, sound equipment and
associated devices. They have a wide array of ingenious mechanisms for positioning which are pertinent to other
purposes. Let the group hear what you find. Regards, Edward Hennessey
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View entire thread: articulated arms for beading lamps
Posted by Rene on Wed Jun 07, 2006 7:39 PM Post subject: Re: articulated arms for beading lamps
Could this work for you http://www.asgla.com/Leveler/leveler.html "BentPedals" <noemail@rogers.com>
wrote in message news:48pd82le7l5vj4k7736qot0erfa09me68o@4ax.com... [quote:a009c3b9f2] Looking for design ideas for an
articulated arm to support lamps while beading. The cardboard box and newspaper trick has work well for years with
panel lamps, but I'd like to step it up a bit with the 18" Worden dragonfly I'm doing. Currently considering using
copper pipe, or 2" sq. oak arms. Design ideas, refinements, and cautions would be appreciated.[/quote:a009c3b9f2]
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View entire thread: articulated arms for beading lamps
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:27 PM Post subject: Re: articulated arms for beading lamps
Worden makes a lamp leveler for either the sectional forms or the full forms. There's also a floor stand. You'll also
need the support disk for what ever size (in your case, the 18") lamp you are making. Andy BentPedals wrote:
[quote:e619951b53]Looking for design ideas for an articulated arm to support lamps while beading. The cardboard box and
newspaper trick has work well for years with panel lamps, but I'd like to step it up a bit with the 18" Worden
dragonfly I'm doing. Currently considering using copper pipe, or 2" sq. oak arms. Design ideas, refinements, and
cautions would be appreciated.[/quote:e619951b53]
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View entire thread: articulated arms for beading lamps
Posted by Glassman on Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:54 PM Post subject: Re: articulated arms for beading lamps
"BentPedals" <noemail@rogers.com> wrote in message news:48pd82le7l5vj4k7736qot0erfa09me68o@4ax.com...
[quote:d861d746eb] Looking for design ideas for an articulated arm to support lamps while beading. The cardboard box
and newspaper trick has work well for years with panel lamps, but I'd like to step it up a bit with the 18" Worden
dragonfly I'm doing. Currently considering using copper pipe, or 2" sq. oak arms. Design ideas, refinements, and
cautions would be appreciated. [/quote:d861d746eb] We made thousands of lamps in the 70's. Trust me.... the box
and paper trick is the way to go unless you're planning to go into production. I have all kinds of great jigs and
gadgets to level shades with, but I rarely take the time to use them. I grab an empty plaster bucket, or garbage pail.
-- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Online suppliers in the EU
Posted by Zion on Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:33 AM Post subject: Re: Online suppliers in the EU
Dennie Tiffany lamps-http://www.ttiffanylamp.com dennis@debrady.com wrote: [quote:4728660cb6]You should be able to
find something here. http://www.stainedglassnews.co.uk/ Dennis Brady Victorian Art Glass -
http://www.victorianartglass.biz DeBrady Glass - http://www.debrady.com Glass Campus -
http://www.glasscampus.com[/quote:4728660cb6]
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View entire thread: Glass from Poland
Posted by Kram Woj on Tue Apr 25, 2006 5:39 PM Post subject: Glass from Poland
Dear Sirs, A company from Poland would like to suggest you establishing cooperation in the range of export of Polish
glass products. We own very wide assortment of items made both of colourless and colourful glass from many different
glass works in Poland. These are mainly functional things and I'd like to pay your special attention to exquisite
dishes, bowls, candle holders, oil lamps, vases, ashtrays and many others. We can offer own transport and very low
prices. If you are inerested in our offer, specific goods or prices, please contact us. kramwoj@op.pl
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View entire thread: Lurker Update
Posted by Moonraker on Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:51 PM Post subject: Re: Lurker Update
"Bashley" <bashley@skypoint.com> wrote in message
news:1160504908.117480.226440@c28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... [quote:72e6f40cdc]Well, I'm not sure what you mean by
lurkers. I assume it's folks who visit, but don't participate. I also think you have classified me as one of them
because I made my first post a couple of days ago. However, I had not heard of this group until the same day I made the
post. I found the group while searching google for stained glass web sites. So - I joined the group and posted a
question. Don't know if this helps your point or not, though. Brian Ashley Actually, I did count you as a
lurker...[/quote:72e6f40cdc] Quite a while back there was a short thread about your question. I don't recall the exact
details, one of the fellows who posts here quite a bit is an expert in old lamps. Maybe he will chime in with some
comments for you.
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View entire thread: Q: paint on glass bulb?
Posted by Søren M on Sat Jul 22, 2006 3:21 PM Post subject: Re: Q: paint on glass bulb?
<kv888831393ster@gmail.com> skrev i en meddelelse news:1153538485.318877.302820@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... I
have some experience with filters used close to halogen lamps. We've used dichroics for years close to such lamps:
http://www.gweep.net/~prefect/pubs/iqp/node73.html these lamps use a dichroic filter on the over glass to absorb UV.
Which is where I think you're trying to paint. Painting directly on the envelope would cause distortion and ultimately
explosion. Richard Søren M wrote: [quote:f37502192a]arlene.carol@gmail.com> skrev i en meddelelse
news:1153157379.155901.13260@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... Søren M wrote: Hello group, i am looking for som help om
painting on my halogen glass bulbs, i has used some: http://www.pebeo.com/us/index.htm colour but the bulb gets too hot
and it burns and smell, i like to ask you if you know any better substitutes that i can use? Regards Soeren M
www.momsendesign.com your lamps are lovely. i'm not quite sure what you're wanting to do however... my guess is that
you want to add color to these unique designs... i'm not sure that you can actually apply anything to halogen that won't
burn off. they get very hot. why not have someone make a colored blown glass 'bulb' to fit over the existing bulb. i
can't see the construction of your lamps, but i would think that a glass globe in front or over the halogen bulb might
work. where are your lamps sold? not that i could afford one, but i have some rich 'minimalist' friends!! :-))
cheers, Arlene arlene.carol@gmail.com Dear Arlene, thank you for komplementing my designs, however its some colour for
some new glass ball designs, wich are not on my website, but you can see a section of it here. http://korturl.dk/qGteX
The balls is allredy powder coloured, but there is some shadows from the GU10 bulb that i am trying to hide via the
"paint" this is the bulb GU10 that i am trying to paint on, at the area at the bulb right under A40-: Maby i
should try with some porcelain paint? About my lamps:) the "Light Shell" is sold by PHILIPS, i can get the
connection for you ans i cna maby even get the fixture for a good price for your friends. The Light Shaper still needs
an manufacturor, but nobody want to produce it because PHILIPS got its "big brother" :-) quite saad hmm..
about the "BetweeN2ShapeS" the company that made it (Royal Scandinavia) has closed down their proffesional
lighting fixture deppartment, and focus now on conventional lampshades and lampfeeds. I only got some of the prototypes
here in my home that i can sell of until a new company takes over the production. I hope that i have answers all of
your questions, if not you are always welcome to contact me. You are also always welcome to wisit my web blog where
there is even more pictures of the fixtures and some of my other designs and some of my paintings.
http://momsendesign.spaces.msn.com/ Cheers from Denmark Soren Momsen www.momsendesign.com [/quote:f37502192a] Dear
Richard, Thank you for the answer. Dicroic is too expencive if i just like to cower the light comming from the side
of the bulb. I need to do it on 50 bulbs and it has to be cheap and easy, and need to melt on to the bulb, and it will
not explode i know that for sure. Regards Søren M
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View entire thread: Q: paint on glass bulb?
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Jul 17, 2006 6:29 PM Post subject: Re: Q: paint on glass bulb?
Søren M wrote: [quote:f6776e42b9]Hello group, i am looking for som help om painting on my halogen glass bulbs, i has
used some: http://www.pebeo.com/us/index.htm colour but the bulb gets too hot and it burns and smell, i like to ask you
if you know any better substitutes that i can use? Regards Soeren M www.momsendesign.com [/quote:f6776e42b9] your
lamps are lovely. i'm not quite sure what you're wanting to do however... my guess is that you want to add color to
these unique designs... i'm not sure that you can actually apply anything to halogen that won't burn off. they get very
hot. why not have someone make a colored blown glass 'bulb' to fit over the existing bulb. i can't see the construction
of your lamps, but i would think that a glass globe in front or over the halogen bulb might work. where are your lamps
sold? not that i could afford one, but i have some rich 'minimalist' friends!! :-)) cheers, Arlene
arlene.carol@gmail.com
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View entire thread: Q: paint on glass bulb?
Posted by Søren M on Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:21 PM Post subject: Re: Q: paint on glass bulb?
<arlene.carol@gmail.com> skrev i en meddelelse news:1153157379.155901.13260@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
Søren M wrote: [quote:cb0afa0914]Hello group, i am looking for som help om painting on my halogen glass bulbs, i has
used some: http://www.pebeo.com/us/index.htm colour but the bulb gets too hot and it burns and smell, i like to ask you
if you know any better substitutes that i can use? Regards Soeren M www.momsendesign.com [/quote:cb0afa0914] your
lamps are lovely. i'm not quite sure what you're wanting to do however... my guess is that you want to add color to
these unique designs... i'm not sure that you can actually apply anything to halogen that won't burn off. they get very
hot. why not have someone make a colored blown glass 'bulb' to fit over the existing bulb. i can't see the construction
of your lamps, but i would think that a glass globe in front or over the halogen bulb might work. where are your lamps
sold? not that i could afford one, but i have some rich 'minimalist' friends!! :-)) cheers, Arlene
arlene.carol@gmail.com Dear Arlene, thank you for komplementing my designs, however its some colour for some new
glass ball designs, wich are not on my website, but you can see a section of it here. http://korturl.dk/qGteX The balls
is allredy powder coloured, but there is some shadows from the GU10 bulb that i am trying to hide via the
"paint" this is the bulb GU10 that i am trying to paint on, at the area at the bulb right under A40-: Maby
i should try with some porcelain paint? About my lamps:) the "Light Shell" is sold by PHILIPS, i can get the
connection for you ans i cna maby even get the fixture for a good price for your friends. The Light Shaper still needs
an manufacturor, but nobody want to produce it because PHILIPS got its "big brother" :-) quite saad hmm..
about the "BetweeN2ShapeS" the company that made it (Royal Scandinavia) has closed down their proffesional
lighting fixture deppartment, and focus now on conventional lampshades and lampfeeds. I only got some of the prototypes
here in my home that i can sell of until a new company takes over the production. I hope that i have answers all of
your questions, if not you are always welcome to contact me. You are also always welcome to wisit my web blog where
there is even more pictures of the fixtures and some of my other designs and some of my paintings.
http://momsendesign.spaces.msn.com/ Cheers from Denmark Soren Momsen www.momsendesign.com
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View entire thread: Q: paint on glass bulb?
Posted by Anonymous on Sat Jul 22, 2006 4:21 AM Post subject: Re: Q: paint on glass bulb?
I have some experience with filters used close to halogen lamps. We've used dichroics for years close to such lamps:
http://www.gweep.net/~prefect/pubs/iqp/node73.html these lamps use a dichroic filter on the over glass to absorb UV.
Which is where I think you're trying to paint. Painting directly on the envelope would cause distortion and ultimately
explosion. Richard Søren M wrote: [quote:e0b3e576ba]arlene.carol@gmail.com> skrev i en meddelelse
news:1153157379.155901.13260@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... Søren M wrote: Hello group, i am looking for som help om
painting on my halogen glass bulbs, i has used some: http://www.pebeo.com/us/index.htm colour but the bulb gets too hot
and it burns and smell, i like to ask you if you know any better substitutes that i can use? Regards Soeren M
www.momsendesign.com your lamps are lovely. i'm not quite sure what you're wanting to do however... my guess is that
you want to add color to these unique designs... i'm not sure that you can actually apply anything to halogen that won't
burn off. they get very hot. why not have someone make a colored blown glass 'bulb' to fit over the existing bulb. i
can't see the construction of your lamps, but i would think that a glass globe in front or over the halogen bulb might
work. where are your lamps sold? not that i could afford one, but i have some rich 'minimalist' friends!! :-))
cheers, Arlene arlene.carol@gmail.com Dear Arlene, thank you for komplementing my designs, however its some colour for
some new glass ball designs, wich are not on my website, but you can see a section of it here. http://korturl.dk/qGteX
The balls is allredy powder coloured, but there is some shadows from the GU10 bulb that i am trying to hide via the
"paint" this is the bulb GU10 that i am trying to paint on, at the area at the bulb right under A40-: Maby i
should try with some porcelain paint? About my lamps:) the "Light Shell" is sold by PHILIPS, i can get the
connection for you ans i cna maby even get the fixture for a good price for your friends. The Light Shaper still needs
an manufacturor, but nobody want to produce it because PHILIPS got its "big brother" :-) quite saad hmm..
about the "BetweeN2ShapeS" the company that made it (Royal Scandinavia) has closed down their proffesional
lighting fixture deppartment, and focus now on conventional lampshades and lampfeeds. I only got some of the prototypes
here in my home that i can sell of until a new company takes over the production. I hope that i have answers all of
your questions, if not you are always welcome to contact me. You are also always welcome to wisit my web blog where
there is even more pictures of the fixtures and some of my other designs and some of my paintings.
http://momsendesign.spaces.msn.com/ Cheers from Denmark Soren Momsen www.momsendesign.com[/quote:e0b3e576ba]
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View entire thread: Fusing Glass Discussions
Posted by Glassman on Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:48 AM Post subject: Re: Fusing Glass Discussions
"Javahut" <notnow@nowhere.net> wrote in message news:e6c1a402g3o@enews2.newsguy.com...
[quote:58e288809e] "Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:7Aeig.88$Nv7.42@fe12.lga... If
it's quick soldering you want than why not melt bar solder in a pot, flux the joints, and pour it on the panel? OK so
it's flat lines, but with black patina no one will know the difference, as evidenced by the Chinese products. Better
yet.... lead came, than you only need to solder the joints. I can't imagine soldering significantly faster with more
heat than 100 watts supplies. If the trade off is a heavy Hexacon iron that saves me a few minutes, I'd still rather use
a lightweight iron. Furthermore if your cutting sucks than all the heat in the world will only make it drip through
faster. What I tell all my students is, "Take your time, and do it more accurately, not faster." Funny you
should mention that, flux and pour. Ever hear of Belcher windows? Ever see one? check these out, the lead was poured
in, glass trapped in a mold of some kind, I admittedly don't know how it was done, but I have seen a few of them,
interesting stuff. http://www.antiqueamericanstainedglasswindows.com/frames%20template.htm navigate on the left to
Mosaics-Belcher and look at them. [/quote:58e288809e] I've seen and fixed lots of lamps poured this way... I wonder
if anyone is still doing this stuff? -- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Fusing Glass Discussions
Posted by Javahut on Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:58 AM Post subject: Re: Fusing Glass Discussions
[quote:4912d64e08] Funny you should mention that, flux and pour. Ever hear of Belcher windows? Ever see one? check
these out, the lead was poured in, glass trapped in a mold of some kind, I admittedly don't know how it was done, but I
have seen a few of them, interesting stuff. http://www.antiqueamericanstainedglasswindows.com/frames%20template.htm
navigate on the left to Mosaics-Belcher and look at them. I've seen and fixed lots of lamps poured this way... I
wonder if anyone is still doing this stuff? [/quote:4912d64e08] Hmm, I have never seen a lamp made this way, I don't
know if you realize it, but there is no glass on either side of those windows. it is just the little pieces held in
place by the lead. Word has it there was mercury in the lead alloy that allowed it to flow that way. but I have no
idea how true that is. This glass is not attached to anything to keep it upright.
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View entire thread: Fusing Glass Discussions
Posted by Glassman on Sun Jun 11, 2006 5:07 AM Post subject: Re: Fusing Glass Discussions
"Javahut" <notnow@nowhere.net> wrote in message news:e6d59b0q2k@enews2.newsguy.com... [quote:d9c0249b55]
Funny you should mention that, flux and pour. Ever hear of Belcher windows? Ever see one? check these out, the lead was
poured in, glass trapped in a mold of some kind, I admittedly don't know how it was done, but I have seen a few of them,
interesting stuff. http://www.antiqueamericanstainedglasswindows.com/frames%20template.htm navigate on the left to
Mosaics-Belcher and look at them. I've seen and fixed lots of lamps poured this way... I wonder if anyone is still
doing this stuff? Hmm, I have never seen a lamp made this way, I don't know if you realize it, but there is no glass on
either side of those windows. it is just the little pieces held in place by the lead. Word has it there was mercury in
the lead alloy that allowed it to flow that way. but I have no idea how true that is. This glass is not attached to
anything to keep it upright. [/quote:d9c0249b55] Yes I've seen about a dozen lamps like this over the years. The
"lead" is very pourous looking and brittle if you break it down. Somekind of alloy. It overlaps the glass by a
tiny margin to hold it in place. No idea how it's done. -- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Fusing Glass Discussions
Posted by michele on Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:05 PM Post subject: Re: Fusing Glass Discussions
i don't get that y'all can't figure it out?> it is a mosaic on clear glass w/ black grout??? OR.. glued glass on
glass with liquid lead lines (not m opinion) neither is particularly difficult, any newbie can do this????? m
"Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:HFMig.2142$E9.299@fe11.lga... [quote:8523c29d6f]
"Javahut" <notnow@nowhere.net> wrote in message news:e6d59b0q2k@enews2.newsguy.com... Funny you should
mention that, flux and pour. Ever hear of Belcher windows? Ever see one? check these out, the lead was poured in, glass
trapped in a mold of some kind, I admittedly don't know how it was done, but I have seen a few of them, interesting
stuff. http://www.antiqueamericanstainedglasswindows.com/frames%20template.htm navigate on the left to Mosaics-Belcher
and look at them. I've seen and fixed lots of lamps poured this way... I wonder if anyone is still doing this stuff?
Hmm, I have never seen a lamp made this way, I don't know if you realize it, but there is no glass on either side of
those windows. it is just the little pieces held in place by the lead. Word has it there was mercury in the lead alloy
that allowed it to flow that way. but I have no idea how true that is. This glass is not attached to anything to keep
it upright. Yes I've seen about a dozen lamps like this over the years. The "lead" is very pourous looking
and brittle if you break it down. Somekind of alloy. It overlaps the glass by a tiny margin to hold it in place. No idea
how it's done. -- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com [/quote:8523c29d6f]
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View entire thread: OT: Nixie Tubes
Posted by RichD on Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:10 PM Post subject: Re: OT: Nixie Tubes
Fred, Nixie tubes are nothing more than neon glow lamps. Use the same method to light a simple neon lamp. A current
limiting resistor and about 180 VAC(peak) or DC. Identify the cathode and then the individual anode leads for each
character element. There is (or was) an IC chip MC7441 HV driver for decoding. I have used the little Burroughs 5840
tubes for projects. RichD Fred Fowler III wrote: [quote:e861852012]Hey all, Was rumbling through bins of old stuff
from a local estate sale and found about some old (looks like mil) hardware with lots of Nixie tubes attached. Asked the
owner, and they "just inherited the junk", take it if you want... I did. I netted about 19 tubes, but have no
idea how to test the "bad" ones. So how easy is it to build a clock or something without frying myself in the
process? I know they require pretty high voltage... Maybe there is a good design for a tube tester, but have not found
on the net? Some research shows I can get new ones from Russia. Cheers, Fred[/quote:e861852012]
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View entire thread: OT: Nixie Tubes
Posted by Winston Smith on Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:47 AM Post subject: Re: Nixie Tubes
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:52:40 GMT, "Tom Gardner" <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
[quote:3d8ca5218e]"Fred Fowler III" <fred@nospamplease.fvfowler.com> wrote in message
news:0j7rg2dsknfdch1bunbdg5p9mnjjfqnh73@4ax.com... Hey all, Was rumbling through bins of old stuff from a local estate
sale and found about some old (looks like mil) hardware with lots of Nixie tubes attached. Asked the owner, and they
"just inherited the junk", take it if you want... I did. I netted about 19 tubes, but have no idea how to test
the "bad" ones. So how easy is it to build a clock or something without frying myself in the process? I know
they require pretty high voltage... Maybe there is a good design for a tube tester, but have not found on the net? Some
research shows I can get new ones from Russia. Cheers, Fred Fred, you have WAY too much time on your hands! They are
just special neon lamps. They take something over a hundred[/quote:3d8ca5218e] volts to fire (light) and then the
voltage drops back to around 90 volts. One precaution. They will draw as much current as they can - to the point of
destruction. Apply the voltage through a resistor to limit the current. Something like 47K to 100K and a 130ish volts
ought to do as a first experiment. You will find one of the pins is the common anode which goes to the positive of the
supply. There is a separate pin for each of the digits which goes to the negative of the supply. Usually you can dope
out the connections by close observation of where the leads go inside the tube. There used to be ICs made just to drive
these things. You can probably turn up data sheets and probably parts with a little Googling. -- W§ mostly in m.s -
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira
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View entire thread: OT: Nixie Tubes
Posted by Winston Smith on Thu Sep 21, 2006 3:46 AM Post subject: Re: Nixie Tubes
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:52:40 GMT, "Tom Gardner" <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
[quote:a228e7fad3]"Fred Fowler III" <fred@nospamplease.fvfowler.com> wrote in message
news:0j7rg2dsknfdch1bunbdg5p9mnjjfqnh73@4ax.com... Hey all, Was rumbling through bins of old stuff from a local estate
sale and found about some old (looks like mil) hardware with lots of Nixie tubes attached. Asked the owner, and they
"just inherited the junk", take it if you want... I did. I netted about 19 tubes, but have no idea how to test
the "bad" ones. So how easy is it to build a clock or something without frying myself in the process? I know
they require pretty high voltage... Maybe there is a good design for a tube tester, but have not found on the net? Some
research shows I can get new ones from Russia. Cheers, Fred Fred, you have WAY too much time on your hands! They are
just special neon lamps. They take something over a hundred[/quote:a228e7fad3] volts to fire (light) and then the
voltage drops back to around 90 volts. One precaution. They will draw as much current as they can - to the point of
destruction. Apply the voltage through a resistor to limit the current. Something like 47K to 100K and a 130ish volts
ought to do as a first experiment. You will find one of the pins is the common anode which goes to the positive of the
supply. There is a separate pin for each of the digits which goes to the negative of the supply. Usually you can dope
out the connections by close observation of where the leads go inside the tube. There used to be ICs made just to drive
these things. You can probably turn up data sheets and probably parts with a little Googling. -- W§ mostly in m.s -
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira
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View entire thread: OT: Nixie Tubes
Posted by Jerry Foster on Thu Sep 21, 2006 1:38 PM Post subject: Re: Nixie Tubes
"Winston Smith" <bogus@buttterfly.net> wrote in message
news:ggu3h2dseecdejspb4vqpn3ovqquddv367@4ax.com... [quote:0b61cea629]On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:52:40 GMT, "Tom
Gardner" tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote: "Fred Fowler III" <fred@nospamplease.fvfowler.com>
wrote in message news:0j7rg2dsknfdch1bunbdg5p9mnjjfqnh73@4ax.com... Hey all, Was rumbling through bins of old stuff
from a local estate sale and found about some old (looks like mil) hardware with lots of Nixie tubes attached. Asked the
owner, and they "just inherited the junk", take it if you want... I did. I netted about 19 tubes, but have no
idea how to test the "bad" ones. So how easy is it to build a clock or something without frying myself in the
process? I know they require pretty high voltage... Maybe there is a good design for a tube tester, but have not found
on the net? Some research shows I can get new ones from Russia. Cheers, Fred Fred, you have WAY too much time on
your hands! They are just special neon lamps. They take something over a hundred volts to fire (light) and then the
voltage drops back to around 90 volts. One precaution. They will draw as much current as they can - to the point of
destruction. Apply the voltage through a resistor to limit the current. Something like 47K to 100K and a 130ish volts
ought to do as a first experiment. You will find one of the pins is the common anode which goes to the positive of the
supply. There is a separate pin for each of the digits which goes to the negative of the supply. Usually you can dope
out the connections by close observation of where the leads go inside the tube. There used to be ICs made just to drive
these things. You can probably turn up data sheets and probably parts with a little Googling. -- W§ mostly in m.s -
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira [/quote:0b61cea629] A young fellow I know is in an engineering program at the
local college. He was assigned to design and build a nixie tube clock as a course project. He seemed not to have any
great problem finding any of the parts he needed. Jerry
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View entire thread: OT: Nixie Tubes
Posted by Spehro Pefhany on Thu Sep 21, 2006 3:23 PM Post subject: Re: Nixie Tubes
On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 12:38:48 GMT, the renowned "Jerry Foster" <jmfoster711NOSPAM@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
[quote:383dcae33e] "Winston Smith" <bogus@buttterfly.net> wrote in message
news:ggu3h2dseecdejspb4vqpn3ovqquddv367@4ax.com... On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:52:40 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote: "Fred Fowler III" <fred@nospamplease.fvfowler.com> wrote in
message news:0j7rg2dsknfdch1bunbdg5p9mnjjfqnh73@4ax.com... Hey all, Was rumbling through bins of old stuff from a local
estate sale and found about some old (looks like mil) hardware with lots of Nixie tubes attached. Asked the owner, and
they "just inherited the junk", take it if you want... I did. I netted about 19 tubes, but have no idea how to
test the "bad" ones. So how easy is it to build a clock or something without frying myself in the process? I
know they require pretty high voltage... Maybe there is a good design for a tube tester, but have not found on the net?
Some research shows I can get new ones from Russia. Cheers, Fred Fred, you have WAY too much time on your hands!
They are just special neon lamps. They take something over a hundred volts to fire (light) and then the voltage drops
back to around 90 volts. One precaution. They will draw as much current as they can - to the point of destruction.
Apply the voltage through a resistor to limit the current. Something like 47K to 100K and a 130ish volts ought to do as
a first experiment. You will find one of the pins is the common anode which goes to the positive of the supply. There
is a separate pin for each of the digits which goes to the negative of the supply. Usually you can dope out the
connections by close observation of where the leads go inside the tube. There used to be ICs made just to drive these
things. You can probably turn up data sheets and probably parts with a little Googling. -- W§ mostly in m.s -
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira A young fellow I know is in an engineering program at the local college. He was
assigned to design and build a nixie tube clock as a course project. He seemed not to have any great problem finding
any of the parts he needed. Jerry [/quote:383dcae33e] If the project was intended to simulate a real design (for
production) process, I hope the prof docked marks if he designed in any obsolete or obsolescent parts, no matter how
nicely they seemed to fit the job. It's really a major problem in many segments of the electronics industry. Best
regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the
reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded
software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
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View entire thread: Natural rock furnishings
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:39 AM Post subject: Natural rock furnishings
I make all sorts of natural stone/rock lamps, candle holders, clocks, vases, desk sets, etc. if I can help you in anyway
preserve or purchase the correct products for your need please let me know. I can help you @
www.stonecreationsonline.com on the contact us page. Enjoy nature, it's gods gift to all of us. Stoneman
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View entire thread: Kiln Coil repair
Posted by Javahut on Wed May 17, 2006 1:25 PM Post subject: Re: Kiln Coil repair
"Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:oKxag.8970$Vy1.5361@fe08.lga... [quote:8096509d3b]
What about wrapping copper wire around each end of the broken coils, and then twisting together? How will this hold up
up to 2000 degrees I wonder? Why?[/quote:8096509d3b] Why re-invent the wheel? You have the ends of two pieces of NI
CHrom resistance wire, just put them together with something that is of high resistance, stainless steel, a machine
screw and nut will work, and have at it, then get on the phone and call for a replacement element, about $30, (less than
the cost of repairing one of those junk Chinese lamps) and fix the darn thing right and be done with it. In the time
you have posted about how to fix it, in every way different than those suggested to you, you could have had it repaired
and the element at your door, waiting for you to put it in.
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View entire thread: Kiln Coil repair
Posted by Glassman on Thu May 18, 2006 5:42 AM Post subject: Re: Kiln Coil repair
"Javahut" <notnow@nowhere.net> wrote in message news:e4f4ib02ctk@enews1.newsguy.com...
[quote:9d4a3fa19f] "Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:oKxag.8970$Vy1.5361@fe08.lga...
What about wrapping copper wire around each end of the broken coils, and then twisting together? How will this hold up
up to 2000 degrees I wonder? Why? Why re-invent the wheel? You have the ends of two pieces of NI CHrom resistance
wire, just put them together with something that is of high resistance, stainless steel, a machine screw and nut will
work, and have at it, then get on the phone and call for a replacement element, about $30, (less than the cost of
repairing one of those junk Chinese lamps) and fix the darn thing right and be done with it. In the time you have
posted about how to fix it, in every way different than those suggested to you, you could have had it repaired and the
element at your door, waiting for you to put it in. [/quote:9d4a3fa19f] That was testy Java. I don't fire everyday
like you do, and am not in a hurry to get this one fixed. The kiln is too old and creaky for me to risk taking the coil
out of all the cracked brick unless I absolutely have to. Just friendly chatter is what this one is all about. -- JK
Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Kiln Coil repair
Posted by Javahut on Thu May 18, 2006 1:37 PM Post subject: Re: Kiln Coil repair
"Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:%WSag.697$Ea1.460@fe09.lga... [quote:78a6931a20]
"Javahut" <notnow@nowhere.net> wrote in message news:e4f4ib02ctk@enews1.newsguy.com...
"Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:oKxag.8970$Vy1.5361@fe08.lga... What about wrapping
copper wire around each end of the broken coils, and then twisting together? How will this hold up up to 2000 degrees I
wonder? Why? Why re-invent the wheel? You have the ends of two pieces of NI CHrom resistance wire, just put them
together with something that is of high resistance, stainless steel, a machine screw and nut will work, and have at it,
then get on the phone and call for a replacement element, about $30, (less than the cost of repairing one of those junk
Chinese lamps) and fix the darn thing right and be done with it. In the time you have posted about how to fix it, in
every way different than those suggested to you, you could have had it repaired and the element at your door, waiting
for you to put it in. That was testy Java. I don't fire everyday like you do, and am not in a hurry to get this one
fixed. The kiln is too old and creaky for me to risk taking the coil out of all the cracked brick unless I absolutely
have to. Just friendly chatter is what this one is all about. Ahhh don't be so thin skinned, wasn't meant personal.
you just keep trying[/quote:78a6931a20] to find ways that are different than what has been suggested and you are going
backwards. Old creaky kilns are what I specialize in. I rebuild them and re-sell them. It's not rocket science. If you
use some caution the element will come out pretty easy, and usually in pieces. When its been fired, it likes to break
due to brittle. So what? Your throwing it out. put the new element in, use a good vacuum on the groove so no debris
gets in your glass, and you are good to go... IF the brick is cracked that bad, fix that too, business is slow, what
else do you have to do? Work some overtime, let people see you there after hours and they will think your making so
much money you don't know where to spend it all!! And my chatter is as friendly as anyone else's, thru the net you can't
see the look on my face. The previous post my face had a look of exasperation!
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View entire thread: shop life ..
Posted by Carl Byrns on Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:18 PM Post subject: Re: shop life ..
"Gunner" <gunner@lightspeed.net> wrote in message news:f7mki2pmjp2k2n9i64ve4nhag16lmkkctv@4ax.com...
[quote:a97536f65c]On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 09:34:57 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos" vordos@tds.net> wrote:
Interestingly, some guys like to use diesel fuel for cleaning, or even ATF------which mystifies me no end. When I wash
parts, I want them clean------I don't just swap oils. Atf has marvelous cleaning properties. And it tends to get under
other oils and lift them off along with the spurge. Gunner [/quote:a97536f65c] And diesel is great for cleaning up oil
spills on concrete. Way back when, we used to clean the kerosene lamps with a quick swipe of a rag damp with kero.
Left them nice and soot-free. -Carl
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View entire thread: OT: How to cover lampshades
Posted by nzlstar* on Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:08 AM Post subject: Re: How to cover lampshades
i have a couple of lampshade frames that i could cover/recover. not sure i get the 'sock' part of it completely. i'll
reread your post a few times and see if it eventually sinks into my tiny brain. :) did u take pix yet? where can we see
them? feel free to come round here and do mine for me when you get time, that is. :)) cheers, jeanne -- san-fran at
ihug dot co dot nz nzlstar on yahoo msg'r nzlstar on webshots gen.gen.co.nz "Sunny" wrote...
[quote:2fccfa1475]I didn't have a clue how to cover a lampshade when I started. I just knew that it had to be possible
and seemed to have a lot to do with glue, LOL. First, I went to several websites. This is the best one with good
explanations. http://interiordec.about.com/od/howtodothings/ht/coverlampshade.htm But we ended up not doing it that
way. Of course. I made a muslin pattern by the method they explain in the link. You put the shade down on paper or
muslin or whatever, put a pencil tip at the seam and then roll the shade all the way across until you're back at the
seam and on the other side of the material you're using for the pattern. You should have a nice circular line. Then,
keeping the edges of the shade in the same places, do the same with whatever edge you didn't already draw. That's the
pattern. Remember that it needs seam width added, as well as an extra inch or so at the tom and bottom. Then DH had a
brilliant suggestion. Instead of rolling the thing along on the shade, gluing as we went, why not sew it up into a
"sock" and pull it over the top. Wow. It looked great. It went on tight and creaseless. Then I got out the old
trusty hot glue gun, glued the top part down (you may have to clip a place or two depending on how much hem you have)
and then the bottom. Glue was a bead laid down just inside the ridge formed by the wire at top and bottom. Then we went
on to the second shade to do the same. Oops, the fabric with the ladies' faces is very directional. If you t ry to cut
it out the same way, you get some faces at sideways angles, looking very wrong. So, I measured the whole thing, then
made six 60-degree wedges. Sorta like a big, flat ended Dresden Plate or maybe a fan. I was able to fussy cut just what
I wanted, adding seam width. I stitched it up, adding tiny top and bottom hems and we pulled it over the top just as we
had the other one. It worked beautifully. I don't know if any of this is understandable or not. And probably most of
you who wanted the directions have found good websites already. But none of the websites explain how to handle
directional fabric. It's easy enough when you think about it. I hope this helps, and I expect to see some pics of
lovely covered lampshades! :) Sunny PS DH is hooked. I think we're going to cover every lamp in the house and maybe
start in on friends' lamps, LOL. [/quote:2fccfa1475]
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View entire thread: OT: How to cover lampshades
Posted by Sunny on Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:24 PM Post subject: OT: How to cover lampshades
I didn't have a clue how to cover a lampshade when I started. I just knew that it had to be possible and seemed to have
a lot to do with glue, LOL. First, I went to several websites. This is the best one with good explanations.
http://interiordec.about.com/od/howtodothings/ht/coverlampshade.htm But we ended up not doing it that way. Of course. I
made a muslin pattern by the method they explain in the link. You put the shade down on paper or muslin or whatever, put
a pencil tip at the seam and then roll the shade all the way across until you're back at the seam and on the other side
of the material you're using for the pattern. You should have a nice circular line. Then, keeping the edges of the shade
in the same places, do the same with whatever edge you didn't already draw. That's the pattern. Remember that it needs
seam width added, as well as an extra inch or so at the tom and bottom. Then DH had a brilliant suggestion. Instead of
rolling the thing along on the shade, gluing as we went, why not sew it up into a "sock" and pull it over the
top. Wow. It looked great. It went on tight and creaseless. Then I got out the old trusty hot glue gun, glued the top
part down (you may have to clip a place or two depending on how much hem you have) and then the bottom. Glue was a bead
laid down just inside the ridge formed by the wire at top and bottom. Then we went on to the second shade to do the
same. Oops, the fabric with the ladies' faces is very directional. If you t ry to cut it out the same way, you get some
faces at sideways angles, looking very wrong. So, I measured the whole thing, then made six 60-degree wedges. Sorta
like a big, flat ended Dresden Plate or maybe a fan. I was able to fussy cut just what I wanted, adding seam width. I
stitched it up, adding tiny top and bottom hems and we pulled it over the top just as we had the other one. It worked
beautifully. I don't know if any of this is understandable or not. And probably most of you who wanted the directions
have found good websites already. But none of the websites explain how to handle directional fabric. It's easy enough
when you think about it. I hope this helps, and I expect to see some pics of lovely covered lampshades! :) Sunny PS
DH is hooked. I think we're going to cover every lamp in the house and maybe start in on friends' lamps, LOL.
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View entire thread: OT: How to cover lampshades
Posted by Sunny on Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:57 AM Post subject: Re: How to cover lampshades
Hi Jeanne, I guess the sock description may not work. Next one, I'll take a picture in the process. The way we did it
was to sew the whole thing up, all finished hems and seams and all, and pull it over the top of the shade form. The
instructions usually tell you to roll the new cover on, glueing it down as you go. We probably did it wrong, but it
worked. LOL. Here are the photos of the finshed product. http://www.flickr.com/photos/16989612@N00/ Now DH is eager to
get on with covering the rest of the lamps in the house. He's even eyeing my stash.....oooooh gotta put a stop to that
LOL. I think it's time for S.E.X. with my husband. ;) Sunny
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View entire thread: Back from Hershey CATS
Posted by ellice on Tue Oct 03, 2006 2:27 PM Post subject: Re: Back from Hershey CATS
On 10/1/06 7:47 PM, "Ericka Kammerer" <eek@comcast.net> wrote: [quote:5546296d11]Sue wrote: I just got
back from Hershey CATS. I had a great time at classes (beading, crochet, lace making) and in the merchandise mart. It
seemed like there were fewer vendors than last year - they seem to be downsizing. CATS sold off some of its magnifying
lamps because it will have fewer classrooms in the future. But someone in one of my classes said Hershey is the biggest
and most successful CATS show. (Apparently in Vegas, too many people were gambling instead of stitching). I didn't see
anyone from RCTN. (I wore a cross stitched RCTN nametag but didn't see any others.) Hershey was fun! I was there--had
an enjoyable time and did way too much shopping. Best wishes, Ericka [/quote:5546296d11] Erika - did you just day trip
or go for a couple? Just curious. ellice
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View entire thread: Back from Hershey CATS
Posted by Ericka Kammerer on Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:47 AM Post subject: Re: Back from Hershey CATS
Sue wrote: [quote:f1c1d640e2]I just got back from Hershey CATS. I had a great time at classes (beading, crochet, lace
making) and in the merchandise mart. It seemed like there were fewer vendors than last year - they seem to be
downsizing. CATS sold off some of its magnifying lamps because it will have fewer classrooms in the future. But
someone in one of my classes said Hershey is the biggest and most successful CATS show. (Apparently in Vegas, too many
people were gambling instead of stitching). I didn't see anyone from RCTN. (I wore a cross stitched RCTN nametag but
didn't see any others.) Hershey was fun! [/quote:f1c1d640e2] I was there--had an enjoyable time and did way too
much shopping. Best wishes, Ericka
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View entire thread: Back from Hershey CATS
Posted by Sue on Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:08 PM Post subject: Back from Hershey CATS
I just got back from Hershey CATS. I had a great time at classes (beading, crochet, lace making) and in the merchandise
mart. It seemed like there were fewer vendors than last year - they seem to be downsizing. CATS sold off some of its
magnifying lamps because it will have fewer classrooms in the future. But someone in one of my classes said Hershey is
the biggest and most successful CATS show. (Apparently in Vegas, too many people were gambling instead of stitching).
I didn't see anyone from RCTN. (I wore a cross stitched RCTN nametag but didn't see any others.) Hershey was fun! SueW
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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:48 PM Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established
glassman wrote: Anyone agree? [quote:fc9bd55928] -- [/quote:fc9bd55928] Nope. I believe the job volume on stained
glass work is down because of the Chinese imports. In the past, people believed stained glass was valuable and were
willing to pay for it. Low price imports have created the impression that stained glass lamps and windows are something
you can buy at Home Depot, Costco, and Walmart. However, I do agree that having an established business provides a
distinctive advantage. Because established businesses enjoy that advantage, I tell newbie "basement bandits"
to price as low as they can. That's the only advantage they have to compete with established businesses. Aggressive
marketing helps too. Victorian Art Glass - http://www.vicartglass.com DeBrady Glassworks - http://www.debrady.com Glass
Campus - http://www.glasscampus.com
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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by Moonraker on Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:51 PM Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established
<dennis@debrady.com> wrote in message news:1161715687.615278.240470@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
[quote:9045fc3326] glassman wrote: Anyone agree? -- Nope. I believe the job volume on stained glass work is down
because of the Chinese imports. In the past, people believed stained glass was valuable and were willing to pay for it.
Low price imports have created the impression that stained glass lamps and windows are something you can buy at Home
Depot, Costco, and Walmart. However, I do agree that having an established business provides a distinctive advantage.
Because established businesses enjoy that advantage, I tell newbie "basement bandits" to price as low as they
can. That's the only advantage they have to compete with established businesses. Aggressive marketing helps too.
[/quote:9045fc3326] Newbie basement bandits are pricing low to compete with the Chinese imports? Does that make any
sense at all to anybody? What an exercise in futility. Stick your finger in the dike, there's a Tsunami coming. If
basement bandits had any talent, experience, vision, or training, they wouldn't need to undercut prices. And even more
importantly, if they had an IQ above room temperature they wouldn't be sitting at your feet in rapt attention. Kool-
Aid, anybody? Did the container load of glass make it to Finland, yet? How about those kilns, still stealing
people's money?
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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:36 PM Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established
Moonraker wrote: [quote:2e8fd6c346]dennis@debrady.com> wrote in message
news:1161715687.615278.240470@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... glassman wrote: Anyone agree? -- Nope. I believe the
job volume on stained glass work is down because of the Chinese imports. In the past, people believed stained glass was
valuable and were willing to pay for it. Low price imports have created the impression that stained glass lamps and
windows are something you can buy at Home Depot, Costco, and Walmart. However, I do agree that having an established
business provides a distinctive advantage. Because established businesses enjoy that advantage, I tell newbie
"basement bandits" to price as low as they can. That's the only advantage they have to compete with
established businesses. Aggressive marketing helps too. Newbie basement bandits are pricing low to compete with the
Chinese imports? Does that make any sense at all to anybody? What an exercise in futility. Stick your finger in the
dike, there's a Tsunami coming. If basement bandits had any talent, experience, vision, or training, they wouldn't
need to undercut prices. And even more importantly, if they had an IQ above room temperature they wouldn't be sitting
at your feet in rapt attention. Kool-Aid, anybody? Did the container load of glass make it to Finland, yet? How
about those kilns, still stealing people's money? [/quote:2e8fd6c346] Everything we've shipped has arrrived, we're
selling more kilns every day, and people seem pretty happy to send us their money. Will you be joining us at Vegas?
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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:46 AM Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established
dennis@debrady.com wrote: [quote:9b4ed528b1]glassman wrote: Anyone agree? -- Nope. I believe the job volume on
stained glass work is down because of the Chinese imports. In the past, people believed stained glass was valuable and
were willing to pay for it. Low price imports have created the impression that stained glass lamps and windows are
something you can buy at Home Depot, Costco, and Walmart. However, I do agree that having an established business
provides a distinctive advantage. Because established businesses enjoy that advantage, I tell newbie "basement
bandits" to price as low as they can. That's the only advantage they have to compete with established businesses.
Aggressive marketing helps too. Victorian Art Glass - http://www.vicartglass.com DeBrady Glassworks -
http://www.debrady.com Glass Campus - http://www.glasscampus.com [/quote:9b4ed528b1] No one in their right mind would
even try to compete with the Chinese glass. Even trying would put one so far under the minimum wage that they'd lose
money. My custom work is booming. Why? Because my stuff doesn't look like it came from China and my customers are not
Chinese imported crap customers. My retail business is the best it's been. Summer is always slow so I don't even try to
compare that with where I'm at now. Even my competition is doing well. You may think that consumers are always looking
for a deal but many of them are looking for quality and Made In the good ole USA!!! My clients want to interact with me
and not just buy some stained glass thing off the shelf. Adapt or die, Dennis!
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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by glassman on Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:36 AM Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established
<dennis@debrady.com> wrote in message news:1161715687.615278.240470@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
[quote:3ed6e58024] glassman wrote: Anyone agree? -- Nope. I believe the job volume on stained glass work is down
because of the Chinese imports. In the past, people believed stained glass was valuable and were willing to pay for it.
Low price imports have created the impression that stained glass lamps and windows are something you can buy at Home
Depot, Costco, and Walmart. However, I do agree that having an established business provides a distinctive advantage.
Because established businesses enjoy that advantage, I tell newbie "basement bandits" to price as low as they
can. That's the only advantage they have to compete with established businesses. Aggressive marketing helps too.
[/quote:3ed6e58024] Dennis could you give us the names of just a couple of your students that are making a primary
income doing glass, by taking your advice? -- JK Sinrod www.SinrodStudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Javahut on Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:34 PM Post subject: Re: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
<BogdanVarlamov@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1146331938.733500.220110@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
[quote:0f4be23715]Hello, I represent Colorful Glass Creations. We have created a new 3D textures stained glass technique
that we use in creating our handcrafted hardwood table lamps. You can view photos, buy our lamps, and place custom
orders all from our website at <a
href="http://www.colorfulglasscreations.com">www.colorfulglasscreations.com[/quote:0f4be23715] /a>
[quote:0f4be23715] Please check out our work! (and show it to your friends and family if you like it.) Also reply to let
me know what you think about it : ) Thank you in advance! [/quote:0f4be23715] Darn, why didn't I think of selling my
stuff here, to other glass people , who MAKE stuff in glass themselves? Those would be the perfect demographics to go
after, people that craft in glass already, on a Newsgroup that is well known for it's tolerance of such things....
yeah, right...
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Mike Firth on Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:30 PM Post subject: Re: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
If the lamps are 10x24 (look bigger, but that's what they say) then the panels are about 5x10 and 5x8. should be easy
to make. from the glare pattern there is a single light bulb inside. -- Mike Firth Furnace Glassblowing Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/ "Moonraker" <moonraker@NOSPAMbellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:%oS4g.32705$Kh5.27493@bignews8.bellsouth.net... [quote:061346b21f] BogdanVarlamov@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146331938.733500.220110@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... Hello, I represent Colorful Glass Creations. We have
created a new 3D textures stained glass technique that we use in creating our handcrafted hardwood table lamps. Aw,
geez. This is ALMOST as tawdry as a stained glass sailboat. Looks like a still-life lava lamp with indigestion.
[/quote:061346b21f]
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Anonymous on Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:32 PM Post subject: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Hello, I represent Colorful Glass Creations. We have created a new 3D textures stained glass technique that we use in
creating our handcrafted hardwood table lamps. You can view photos, buy our lamps, and place custom orders all from our
website at <a href="http://www.colorfulglasscreations.com">www.colorfulglasscreations.com</a>
Please check out our work! (and show it to your friends and family if you like it.) Also reply to let me know what you
think about it : ) Thank you in advance!
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Adrian Brentnall on Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:39 PM Post subject: Re: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Hi All I know it's cruel - but I couldn't help chuckling at the op's phrase "I call my lamps “Night Bloomers”
Which highlights (no pun intended) the dangers of having two countries, divided by a common language. In (older)
British usage - 'bloomers' are not only flowers - but also a rather large and loose variety of ladies underwear - so is
he saying that his creations are 'pants' ?? (think that translates back into US English ..?) Many years ago, a UK
company I was consulting for was highly delighted to see that their US distributor had created an expensive glossy
brochure, describing their portable videoconference equipment as 'a mobile convenience'. In the UK - this would be one
of those little plastic 'kiosks' containing a chemical toilet that you find at outside events.....! Coming back on-
topic - what's the special (patent pending) process ? Looks like stained glass offcuts glued onto sheets of opaque
glass - to my uneducated eye.... Adrian Suffolk UK ======return email munged================= take out the papers and
the trash to reply
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Javahut on Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:46 PM Post subject: Re: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
"Adrian Brentnall" <adrian-the papers and the trash@ambquality.co.uk> wrote in message
news:65j7521h3vo7dnamouv7m8ant5f5o22035@4ax.com... [quote:2d4a95c71e]Hi All I know it's cruel - but I couldn't help
chuckling at the op's phrase "I call my lamps "Night Bloomers" Which highlights (no pun intended) the
dangers of having two countries, divided by a common language. In (older) British usage - 'bloomers' are not only
flowers - but also a rather large and loose variety of ladies underwear - so is he saying that his creations are 'pants'
?? (think that translates back into US English ..?) Many years ago, a UK company I was consulting for was highly
delighted to see that their US distributor had created an expensive glossy brochure, describing their portable
videoconference equipment as 'a mobile convenience'. In the UK - this would be one of those little plastic 'kiosks'
containing a chemical toilet that you find at outside events.....! Coming back on-topic - what's the special (patent
pending) process ? Looks like stained glass offcuts glued onto sheets of opaque glass - to my uneducated eye....
[/quote:2d4a95c71e] "Night Undies", works for me, like the "bloomers" thing better. Probably
patented the pouring of castable clear resin onto glass, nobody has ever done that before, thank goodness, BUT far be
it from me to deride someone's attempt to earn a living, but they sure won't get much of one on this Newsgroup, not when
everyone, including me, is always looking "for the cheapest way to ...." should be amusing....
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View entire thread: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
Posted by Moonraker on Sun Apr 30, 2006 12:11 AM Post subject: Re: Unique 3D stained glass table lamps
<BogdanVarlamov@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1146331938.733500.220110@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
[quote:8db09657cb]Hello, I represent Colorful Glass Creations. We have created a new 3D textures stained glass technique
that we use in creating our handcrafted hardwood table lamps. [/quote:8db09657cb] Aw, geez. This is ALMOST as tawdry
as a stained glass sailboat. Looks like a still-life lava lamp with indigestion.
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View entire thread: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
Posted by Glassman on Sat Apr 29, 2006 5:06 AM Post subject: Re: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
"AmazonJax" <amazon.jax@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146257855.047411.69230@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... [quote:d6a1f2e20c]I'm making a Tiffany (Odyssey) 20"
Dragonfly lamp. How to I solder the spaces where the wings overlap? They are too far apart to bridge with solder, and I
tried to put foil there, but that became extremely difficult. Any suggestions? [/quote:d6a1f2e20c] Sorry to sound
like a jerk, but you can buy one on TV for about $99 bucks! Almost the cost of the supplies and 100 hours of labor. Now
you know why we don't make lamps in America anymore. Sucks doesn't it? -- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
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View entire thread: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
Posted by Anonymous on Sat Apr 29, 2006 5:05 PM Post subject: Re: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
Glassman wrote: [quote:0cf92101b1]"AmazonJax" <amazon.jax@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146257855.047411.69230@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... I'm making a Tiffany (Odyssey) 20" Dragonfly lamp. How
to I solder the spaces where the wings overlap? They are too far apart to bridge with solder, and I tried to put foil
there, but that became extremely difficult. Any suggestions? Sorry to sound like a jerk, but you can buy one on TV
for about $99 bucks! Almost the cost of the supplies and 100 hours of labor. Now you know why we don't make lamps in
America anymore. Sucks doesn't it? -- JK Sinrod www.sinrodstudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
[/quote:0cf92101b1] Well now...aren't you just a little ray of sunshine!! :-) Andy
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View entire thread: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
Posted by Javahut on Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:37 PM Post subject: Re: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
"Glassman" <jksinrod@aol.com> wrote in message news:rDB4g.810$lu7.385@fe12.lga... [quote:37005155fe]
"AmazonJax" <amazon.jax@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146257855.047411.69230@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... I'm making a Tiffany (Odyssey) 20" Dragonfly lamp. How
to I solder the spaces where the wings overlap? They are too far apart to bridge with solder, and I tried to put foil
there, but that became extremely difficult. Any suggestions? Sorry to sound like a jerk, but you can buy one on TV
for about $99 bucks! Almost the cost of the supplies and 100 hours of labor. Now you know why we don't make lamps in
America anymore. Sucks doesn't it? [/quote:37005155fe] See, that's my problem, I knew you could help me... I can't sell
a $99 lamp to save my soul, the one last week went for $3400. Darn it, I just GOT to start competing with those
foreigners.... I got to start asking cheaper prices, but then I better stop using Lins and Genesis glass and start using
Spectrum and other double rolls....that's the ticket... can't ask higher prices, might get 'em...
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View entire thread: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
Posted by howard on Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:41 AM Post subject: Re: Solding the Dragonfly lamp?
[quote:b43aa9ca1c]Sorry to sound like a jerk, but you can buy one on TV for about $99 bucks! Almost the cost of the
supplies and 100 hours of labor. Now you know why we don't make lamps in America anymore. Sucks doesn't it?
[/quote:b43aa9ca1c] "See, that's my problem, I knew you could help me... I can't sell a $99 lamp to save my soul,
the one last week went for $3400. Darn it, I just GOT to start competing with those foreigners.... I got to start
asking cheaper prices, but then I better stop using Lins and Genesis glass and start using Spectrum and other double
rolls....that's the ticket... can't ask higher prices, might get 'em..."
============================================= DAMN, me too........ gotta get those exorbitant prices down from $2950
(minimum) for a 14" fly, after all it does take about 25 to 30 hours to make, to just under $10K for a 28"
fly.....For me access to UROBORUS and BULLSEYE ( I can hand pick) and a few cases of YOGO STIPPLE cause me to do work
that is ALMOST indistinguishable from SPECTRUM, until you actually open your eyes! A real interesting and true
happening: My son lives, works and is married in INDIA (PUNE). He has gone the opposite of outsourcing! He was sent
out! anyway, I brought a nice pleasant 20" fly to the kids as a wedding present. At the airport I was stopped twice
by officials and asked the value of the shade I opined it was a gift and the materials were only around $75.00. One
official was astounded that it would be so expensive ($75.